Drylands Bareback
Drylands, near Innsbruck, Austria, likely offers the highest concentration of hard mixed/drytool routes in Europe. Albert Leichtfried is very motivated, strong and fired up. He just sent Game Over, the hardest mixed route in Europe, bareback. He sends the following after experimenting with different technqiues. Photos later.
Here's what Albert has to say about Game Over done bareback:
"Yes it's done - "Game over" is reloaded now!
You can call it THE FIGHT of the year - felt like being on my last seconds after
clipping the chain...pumped like hell!
Thanks ;) to "XX", there are some intermediates now and all the weak hooks are
a bit better...
I had a day with perfect conditions (0°C). On working the moves I felt, that I
got far much stronger than last year. The hard moves felt o.k. - quite easy
compared to some boulder-problems on my wall.
I think it got a bit easier now and I would not give more than M13, also because
of my fast ascent, but check it out in Feb... I attached the updated list, gave
M12- for compstyle because of the better hooks.
What a Christmas present!
Now I'm off for working again.
Let the pump continue!
Have fun,
Albert"
Albert Leichtfried's list about different grading for Dryland near Innsbruck.
For different climbing styles
Route |
year |
Original grading, compared to other routes around Europe “Comp Style” |
Grading with reference “Musashi” and Will Gadd's list “Comp Style” |
Bareback grading “reloaded” or “old school” |
comments (from Albert) |
Kaminkehrer |
12/2004 |
M5 |
M5 |
M5 |
No spur |
Check the ripper |
12/2004 |
M7 |
M7 |
M7 |
No spur |
Reise ins Niemandsland |
01/2004 |
M7+ |
M7+ |
M7+ |
No spur |
Häppy |
01/2004 |
M10- |
M9- |
M10- |
With spur you can rest after every move |
Fontok |
01/2004 |
M11- |
M10- |
M11- |
With and without spur hard crux at the end, with spur better rests |
Unleashed |
12/2005 |
M11 |
M10+ |
? |
Hard single move on a weak hook, only once repeated by Simon Wandeler, both ascents with spurs |
Tension |
01/2004 |
M12- |
M11 |
M12+ |
With spurs good rests in the roofs, without spurs the 2nd roof is hardcore |
Schalldämpfer |
02/2005 |
M11+ |
M11 |
? |
Very hard single move, only once repeated by Georg Kluckner, both ascents with spurs |
Game Over |
01/2005 |
M13 |
M12- |
M13 |
Classified as hardest mixed-route in Europe, Good rests with spurs, climbed bareback it’s hard |