Go do this route. As the Newfies say, "It's fu' n' wi' ke'!"
And take a camera. The first pitch is SUPER aesthetic.
The Ying & the Yapping, IV WI6, 120m, FA Scott Semple and Eammon Walsh
The Ying and the Yapping is a great route that has threatened to form in the past, but has always resembled a science project. This year it's all ice, and the first pitch bears a stunning resemblance to Fearful Symmetry. The name comes from the calm demeanour and ice-avoidance savvy of a 70-pound Lab/Malamute mix (the Ying) versus her companion that chased and yipped at falling ice like it was a herd of 300 sheep. Luckily the Yapping never got hit, but today she's getting an early Christmas present--a muzzle.
Gear: 10 screws, a few knifeblades, one baby angle, a few stoppers, including one large stopper
Park: As for Transparent Fool. Park at the Bison Creek streambed (no sign) 7.2km north of Waterfowl Lake Campground and 11.7km south of David Thompson Highway.
Approach: Two drainage systems spill into the Bison Creek streambed. The climber's-left drainage leads to Transparent Fool, while the climber's-right drainage leads up to the Ying & the Yapping. From the parking area, walk back (south) along the road and hike up the creek to where it turns into a tighter canyon. Instead of heading up to the ridge to the left (toward Transparent Fool), stay in the drainage as it leads up and right. Follow the drainage to the base of the route. (NOTE: A major avalanche must have come down this drainage. A lot of debris is sitting fairly far down from the route, and above the debris the snow is rock hard up to the wall. Even the wall at the base of the first pillar is plastered with compact snow.)
P1: WI6, 50m. Dry chandeliered ice leads through overhanging mushrooms to a cowboy rest with dangling legs. Above the rest, another short steep section leads to a ledge below the skinny pillar/dagger. Stem between the rock and the pillar until high enough to pull onto the pillar. Steep ice leads into a strange ice chimney feature to a final steep mushroom and a bit of lower angled ice. Belay off of an Abalakov, or further back from the lip off of pins and nuts.
P2: WI5(+), 50m. Walk up the slope and scramble up a short WI2 step to get onto a perfect belay ledge. Belay off of an Abalakov. One steep mushroom leads to a good groove, a short snow slope and a final WI4 step. Belay off an Abalakov.
P3: WI3, 20m. Continue up an avalanche-packed gully to the final step.
Descent: Rappel from Abalakovs.