Wolverines in New York, 110m IV, WI 5+. Tangle Ridge, David Marra and Claire (too wild for the
masses) Macdonald, Nov./04
Approach; This piece of ice is a few hundred meters to the climbers Left of Bastarir Sirdar,the Right most ice line, on Tangle Ridge. Our route is the Fat,
middle line; (there is another very thin line still left to do to the Left of our line another few hundred meters).
We hiked up the walk off descent of 'Melt Out', (Climber Left of Melt Out), then hike up to the top of the treed apex, between the two massive gullies, the right one feeds Melt Out) for approx. 1000ft. when faced with a small cliff at treeline walk around to the Left, gain a few hundred feet on ridge. We then traversed DOWN into the Right gully to the base of a short WI 2 step. (This is the gully directly above Melt Out, used to gain Bastarir Sirdar). Above the short WI 2 is another approach pitch, WI 3, 20m there's a fixed pin with biner on rock above ice to the Right,5m. Continue walking up (notice a mixed line gaining access to Bastarir Sirdar) keep going another few hundred feet to base of route. Jojos book claims a 4-5hrs approach, we did it with good early season snow in 2hrs.
At The base is an awesome belay/bivi cave.
P1,WI 5+ The first 40m is the crux, steep 'shrooms with thin pillars to WI 4 ground for 15m. Belay on
P2, Step up to the final 20m+ WI 4 pillar exiting on easier WI 3 ice in gully.
Rap Route and reverse descent.
Rack; as per usual
This route offers a wide varity of ice conditions and characteristics for its grade in an alpine setting.
til that day, diamond