Rob Owens writes, "The first new ice route of the 00/01 season. Definitely not a
classic but a
pretty fun day!"
"The Wild Bunch"
N.E. Face Direct of Mt. Beatty (3999m).
W.I. 6 RX, 5.7, III(alpine). 400 meters.
F.A. Rob Owens and Eamonn Walsh Sept. 26, 2000
Mt. Beatty lies just south of North Kananaskis Pass, in Peter Loughheed
Provincial Park, Alberta, Canada.
The following route formed during a short cold snap that had evening lows
down to -17 and -10 degrees Celsius. The route was climbed 6 days later in
temperatures well above freezing.
The line goes direct up the center of the N.E. face straight to the summit
of the mountain. The landmark feature was an ice vein that started at the
base and lead up to an ice rib that split the upper snow/ice face.
PITCH #1- 55m. W.I. 6 RX. Very thin, unconsolidated, poorly adhered, ice
that ranged from 70- 90 degrees. No ice pro was used. Rock pro was useful
for the first 25 meters and then vanished.
PITCH #2 and 3- 110m. 5.7 mixed. Classy mixed climbing. Up a gully/chimney,
with good rock gear, and good rock for 50 meters. Another 60 meters of thin,
good quality ice and poor rock leads to the upper snow slope.
Snow and ice filled gully's lead to the upper snow face (35 degrees) which
then leads to the summit. Beautiful views of the Royal group!
The descent follows the East Ridge and then goes down a gully on the west
side of the mountain.
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