The Wicked Witch of the West V M6 R-X, WI 6 R 190m, Guy Lacelle, Riche Marshall, 400m left of Mon
Ami. Dec 2004
I was able to recruit Rich Marshall to come with me and climb another new route in Protection Valley. It
is a high quality route with character similar to the Stanley Headwall.
The Wicked Witch of the West V M6 R-X, WI 6 R 190m. This route is situated approximately 400m left of Mon Ami. It is a wide ice flow that doesn't quite reach the ground. There is a free hanging pillar at the top of the climb.
Pitch One: M6 R-X 60m Start on a big ledge at a point
app. 15m left of the ice flow above. Climb rock for
app 30m then traverse right to reach thin brittle ice
and climb up to a big ledge.
Pitch 2 and 3: Climb 90m of grade 4 ice.
Pitch 4: WI 6 R Climb a brittle and technical ice
pillar to reach better ice leading to the top of the
Rappel the top 3 pitches on V-thread. The last rappel
is off a large boulder outcrop.
15 hours car to car.