Under My Thumb – III, M4+, WI5, 55m. FA – Dean Mounsey, Adrian Nelhams, 26th March 2005.

This compelling mixed line forms in a gully on the NE face of Mt Sheol (Grid 546929)

Approach

From Lake Louise follow the Moraine Lake road by foot or on skis for a couple of kilometers turning right onto the first obvious ski trail heading up into Paradise Valley. After an hour or so you will emerge from the trees at the first bridge crossing of Paradise Creek. Continue along the ski trail and after the second bridge crossing turn rightwards through the trees (there is sometimes a faint ski trail) leading up the valley between Sheol Mt and Saddle Mt (as per the approach for ‘The Tease WI 5’) follow this trail up into the hidden valley for about half an hour. Under My Thumb can be clearly seen high in the first major gully on the left. (‘The Tease’ is a further 300 m up the valley).

Ascend the snow cone and the leftward trending gully line up until at the base of the obvious rightwards trending ramp line leading to the ice.

Gear

Mixed rack of wires and cams, screws for ice.

Route Description

Climbed in two pitches, the first (M4+ 30m) delicately traverses exposed snowed up rock (vague diagonal rightwards ramp) to an awkward step up and pull through an overhang onto the ice, belay near the base of the pillar. The second pitch (WI5 25m) follows the steep ice pillar above to the top of the route.

Rappel the route on ice anchors

FA – Dean Mounsey, Adrian Nelhams, 26th March 2005.