Ė M9- W8- 30m
Scott Semple, Eamonn Walsh, December Ď01
is the third of three mixed routes behind A
Bridge Too Far (W4+). It
starts about five metres right of Under
the Bridge (M8-). Climb
up a short pillar and into a right facing corner.
Bust out the roof on smallóbut existentóholds to a good rail.
Six bolts to the lip. Probably
easier in fatter years.
on the ice grade:
Well, Iím not sure. You
see, itís ice.
Swing at it; tools stick. There
is that post-mixed-climbing bicep pump to contend with and the feet that
frantically shorten the dagger that exacerbate the situation, but . . . itís
. . . you know . . . ice. There
is the pro of course. . . You
wouldnít want to put any screws in that thingónot before the lip anyway.
Then, just when you want a screw, your on
W5, so . . . itís tough to evaluate. Sure
the dagger is only vertical and the forearm pump disappears, but, again,
thereís that bicep pump that takes longer to get rid of, the potential ride,
the residual-lactic-acid panic . . . Yes,
true, the figure-4s are over at that point and, yes, youíre on your feet
and, yes, itíd be difficult to fall off, but what
if SOMETHING HAPPENED? I
really donít know; Iíve never even climbed W7, so Iím probably not
evolved enough to know . . . Letís
just say the ice grade needs confirmation.