Troubled Water Ė M9- W8- 30m

FA: Scott Semple, Eamonn Walsh, December Ď01

This is the third of three mixed routes behind A Bridge Too Far (W4+).  It starts about five metres right of Under the Bridge (M8-).  Climb up a short pillar and into a right facing corner.  Bust out the roof on smallóbut existentóholds to a good rail.  Six bolts to the lip.  Probably easier in fatter years.

 

Note on the ice grade:  Well, Iím not sure.  You see, itís ice.  Swing at it; tools stick.  There is that post-mixed-climbing bicep pump to contend with and the feet that frantically shorten the dagger that exacerbate the situation, but . . . itís . . . you know . . . ice.  There is the pro of course. . .  You wouldnít want to put any screws in that thingónot before the lip anyway.  Then, just when you want a screw, your on W5, so . . . itís tough to evaluate.  Sure the dagger is only vertical and the forearm pump disappears, but, again, thereís that bicep pump that takes longer to get rid of, the potential ride, the residual-lactic-acid panic . . .  Yes, true, the figure-4s are over at that point and, yes, youíre on your feet and, yes, itíd be difficult to fall off, but what if SOMETHING HAPPENED?  I really donít know; Iíve never even climbed W7, so Iím probably not evolved enough to know . . .  Letís just say the ice grade needs confirmation.

-S