The Brink (IV, W3, 5.8 - 450m) FA: J. Mills - Nov 23, '05
A highly reccomended alpine route in the front ranges near Nordegg. Best winter alpine route in the David Thompson Corridor.
The climb is visible from the highway SouthWest of Nordegg. It is on a very wide horizontally banded peak NorthWest of the highway. The route takes the coulior in the middle of the NE face. I'll send pictures once they are developed (I guess I'm a techno peasant). Located at GR: 356953 on 83 C/8 - Nordegg
Park: At Allstones Creek Trailhead (signed) 31.5km from Nordegg OR 59.3km from the Crossing.
Approach: Follow the huge trail to the lake then bushwack to the base of the route, about 3 hours, take a map. I bivied at the base with just a lighter for bivi gear. It was a
very lonely fire but it did the trick. Could be done in a day but the approach would be tricky in the dark.
Route: Head straight up the obvious coulior over a number of easy ice steps and avalanche prone snow slopes to a final ptich(50m?) up a fantastic mixed corner to the ridge top. This final pitch looked like it would take lots of good cams, especially big ones(#4). Very nice climbing.
Descent: There are probably a few ways down but this is how I went: From the ridge top turn left and continue on to a small summit. Turn right and head down to a col and a snowslope leading to the headwaters of Allstones creek. (Check the map, this is NOT the same valley that Allstones trail is in) Follow the creek back to the highway, about 3 or 4 hours.