Stompin Tom's Cabin, WI3, 100m, FA-Greg Cornell, Jan9/03

This north facing climb stares at Mt.Fable. In colder years the ice may upsize to an integrale route up the gully, ending near the summit of Gap Mtn. An unclimbed ice gully and pillar to the east also exist in the area. (The photo of Mt. Fable in Bow Valley Rock is in position with where the route sits.)

 

Hike up Exshaw Creek and take the major valley as for the scramble route and SW ridge (Fable Creek). About 10 minutes past the large rock dome on the left, the route can easily be seen; it is the third major gully on the left. Hike up treed washout to the ice. Climb 75m of slab ice with 3 ledges to a steeper 25m of very featureless ice.

Descent: climb the right couloir and exit right into trees, walk for 3 minutes to a curtain of ice spilling over a wall. Rap the tree directly above the ice and hike out or top rope the curtain. This 20m curtain is also visible from the valley bottom and has mixed potential up pockets on either side or a third line up the middle on smooth, glassy ice.

**This curtain was rapped and attempted many times but sanity and a broken crampon curtailed a complete

ascent**