Steep Foam Alabama

Steve Holeczi and I climbed a new route on the North side of the North Goodsir Tower. Long approach made easier with bike. Sneak around the seracs (please) and then head for the ribbon of ice coming down from the Central-North Tower col. We bivied on the glacier and then climbed six much harder than they look pitches of serious foam. Not great gear or anchors- a good adventure but hard to reccomend in those conditions. In fatter conditions it would be cruisier and then you could gun for the col in eight to ten more pitches (these are yet to be done). We had no bolts and got off OK but it took a bit of frigging with the KB's and airated Abalokovs to make me just barely happy each rappel.

Good Luck, Larry Stanier