Spite IV M4 WI4, 80 m of climbing

FA: Rob Owens and Raphael Slawinski, November 2, 2000

The obvious pillar high up on the north-east face of Mt. Warspite along the Smith-Dorrien trail. Take a few pins, a medium cam or two, screws and Spectres.

 Approach: as for “Imaginary Goat” into the bowl below that route, then hike up and right to the base of the obvious line directly below the summit of Mt. Warspite (2-2.5 hrs).

 Climb: Start up easy ice to a narrow ledge. Move right and improvise a belay (bogus bolt, feel free to add another one). Step up onto a thinly iced slab and follow the left-leaning corner above to a snow gully. Spectres in frozen turf protect the crux (M4). Wander up the gully past a WI2 step to the base of a pretty pillar. Climb it past some technical sections (WI4) to easier ground. Easy ice leads to a snow slope. Given an early start, this line could be taken all the way to the summit of the mountain.

 Descent: Rappel the route from abalakovs.

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