The Silmarillion IV Wi 6+ X 150 metres, FA Chris Delworth, Dave Edgar, Eamonn Walsh, Nov '04

Storm Creek, more info soon.

pitch one: a long serious pitch. climb very thin 80 degree ice for 25
metres at which point the ice steepens. Climb two delicate pillars for 10
metres, fixed kb don't trust. Top out onto a narrow flow which is climbed
to a snowledge on the right. Fixed rock anchor. Treat all pieces on this
pitch with a high degree of suspicion.
pitch two: looks easy but... climb two short pillars to a free hanger,
traverse left past the hanger on slabby thin
ice for quite aways left to behind some pillars. Squeeze out and mantle
into an awkward alcove were there is some good kb cracks. Move up left onto
a very narrow, very steep column and start pullin for maybe 10 metres. Low
angle thin ice leads up behind a pillar, ice srew belay. The ice and gear
on this pitch was adequate.
pitch three: head up the short pillar and climb sustained terrain on good
ice which ends below a steep rock wall.

The descent has one crux for one person, the second rappel needs a
directional to get back to the fixed rock belay, the last to rap...have fun!

Rock rack: stubbies galore as well as some long ones, knifeblades are
important as well as a selection of other pins, aliens and a half set of
nuts.

 

Will Kahlert Note:

Just wanted to add to Eamonn's description of Silmarillon. Did the seconnd ascent yesterday of the first 2 quality pitches, the grade may have dropped a bit being a successive ascent but still run out. We added a direct 3rd pitch obvious from the ground.

Classic finnish; From the second pitch, traverse over to the right free hanging pillar, happily greet the thickening ice, then follow 80 degree thin ice and a final ramp of thin ice to a rock belay small cams and kb's on snow ledge . WI 5+ R (similar in character to the lower pitches) 60m rope stretcher, no belay till ledge.

cheers Will K

 

Andrew Querner, www.andrewquerner.com, sends the following info and shots:Here's a couple shots from the Silmarillion. Climber is Will Kahlert on the 2nd ascent via direct variation. These two shots are of pitch 1. The tighter shot is at the crux. This route is ultra-aesthetic