Shut up and Walk, WI 5+ R, III, 100 meters. F.A. Steve Holzeki, Kim Csizmazia, Will Gadd, Oct 26, 2000.
Hike up Stewart Creek for about three hours past Twisted Sister, then another hour to the base. The route is on the back of Big Sister near the top of the wall. The route is visible from the 1A about 5K east of Canmore. You can't see it on the approach until you're on the scree slope between Middle and Big Sister. There's an OK trail most of the way. When the trail starts its long traverse back North to reach the summit of Middle Sister bust straight up on fourth-class terrain, traversing a bit and generally doing the Rockies thing until you're at the base. We got there via a nice left to right slanting ledge with some 5.2 climbing, scramble. The route name pretty much sums the approach up.
The first pitch is the crux, thin detached ice to a larger detached pillar. Protection goes in the rock, the pillar is not something you'd want to put gear in. I kicked it on rap and it fell down, but may regrow... The second pitch is nice grade 4/5 ice, threads for rappel stations left in place. Pins are useful. You can do a short third pitch as well and then up the snow to the summit of Big Sister. Cool place, nice views of the Bow Valley.
Descent: Traverse west along the start ledge until it ends, rap 30 M from a thread with tat, traverse a bit more to the ridge that connects Big and Middle Sister, scramble down this to the trail and walk out in the dark. Fun route, it appeared in late September and was probably better then.
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