Dave Marra  Note, January 24th on this route:

Hello all you boyz and girlz,

The Rights of Passenge may not be a FA. After discovering exactly where this route lays, I believe this feature has been climbed pre 80s by some old Jasper pirates. Ken Wallator showed me this line over 5 years ago and mentioned it had been climbed and that he attempted and/or completed a variation. It's worth doing a little more research....a good place to start would be asking around in Jasper. It's very possible the glacier tongue has changed dramatically but I do think the main feature has been climbed more than once.

donkey dave, 250-837-2907

 

Rights of Passage (Mt. Kitchener N.W Face)  1000M IV M5 WI 7+

F.A. Eric Dumerac, Philippe Pellet, October 2002

 

Approach:

Park at the major scenic pull out facing the Stutfield Glacier. Good view of route from here. Walk down to the flats crossing braided arms of the Sunwapta River. Follow drainage to lakes (good bivy). Follow left most moraine crest in the valley until directly facing the route, now the first pitch chimney is visible. Climb up moraine via snow tongues to base. 2.5 hours from road.

 

Gear: 2 60 Meter ropes, small rack of cams and pins, dozen screws.

 

1.        50M 5.8 or WI 3+. If the ice is not climbable then follow a weakness to the right wich goes up then trends left joining the upper chimney. (Sling thread rappel).

  1. 140M WI 3 Go up the couloirs passing short ice steps
  2. 35M WI 3 The gully narrows and climb up a longer ice step to an old bolt (previous attempt circa 80ís).
  3. 60M Continue up snow /ice couloirs to where the gully narrows again.
  4. 40M M5 or WI 3+ If the main ice flow is not in shape climb a cool smear to good mixed  (good pro) and the top of the constriction. (Piton Rappel)
  5. 100M Ascend the snow gully.
  6. 20M WI 3+ Climb up a thin waterfall.
  7. 60M Continue up the snow gully.
  8. 45M WI 4 Climb up a waterfall taking the left branch at the top. Belay from a bolt on the left side of the island boulder in the middle of the couloirs.
  9. 80M Continue up the snow/ice gully to just before the base of the constriction glacier. Prudent to belay on the sheltered left wall.
  10. 45M WI3 Climb up the gully then up and left under glacier.
  11. 20M WI3+ Climb over a short bulge and climb left into an ice alcove on the glacier.
  12. 25M WI 7+ Traverse right and hold on to your hat! Climb directly up the steep ice to where the angle abates somewhat at a snowy ledge.
  13. 25M WI 7+ Continue straight up on overhanging strenuous  ice until a slight traverse left avoids steeper ice and gains a prominent snowy ledge.
  14. 60M WI 3+ Traverse left over a snowy arÍte to a hidden chimney where the constriction glacier meets the left wall. Climb up to the top of the narrow chimney.
  15. 150M WI 2 Continue up the ice rink to the summit ridge/col. Rappel the route.