Dave Marra Note, January 24th on this route:
Hello all you boyz and girlz,
The Rights of Passenge may not be a FA. After discovering exactly where
this route lays, I believe this feature has been climbed pre 80s
by some old Jasper pirates. Ken Wallator showed me this
line over 5 years ago and mentioned it had been climbed
and that he attempted and/or completed a variation. It's
worth doing a little more research....a good place to start would
be asking around in Jasper. It's very possible the glacier tongue has
changed dramatically but I do think the main feature has been climbed more
donkey dave, 250-837-2907
Rights of Passage (Mt. Kitchener N.W Face)
1000M IV M5 WI 7+
F.A. Eric Dumerac, Philippe Pellet, October 2002
at the major scenic pull out facing the Stutfield Glacier. Good view of route
from here. Walk down to the flats crossing braided arms of the Sunwapta River.
Follow drainage to lakes (good bivy). Follow left most moraine crest in the
valley until directly facing the route, now the first pitch chimney is visible.
Climb up moraine via snow tongues to base. 2.5 hours from road.
2 60 Meter ropes, small rack of cams and pins, dozen screws.
50M 5.8 or WI 3+. If the ice is not climbable then follow a weakness to
the right wich goes up then trends left joining the upper chimney. (Sling thread
WI 3 Go up the couloirs passing short ice steps
WI 3 The gully narrows and climb up a longer ice step to an old bolt
(previous attempt circa 80ís).
Continue up snow /ice couloirs to where the gully narrows again.
M5 or WI 3+ If the main ice flow is not in shape climb a cool smear to good
mixed (good pro) and the top of
the constriction. (Piton Rappel)
Ascend the snow gully.
WI 3+ Climb up a thin waterfall.
Continue up the snow gully.
WI 4 Climb up a waterfall taking the left branch at the top. Belay from a
bolt on the left side of the island boulder in the middle of the couloirs.
Continue up the snow/ice gully to just before the base of the constriction
glacier. Prudent to belay on the sheltered left wall.
WI3 Climb up the gully then up and left under glacier.
WI3+ Climb over a short bulge and climb left into an ice alcove on the
WI 7+ Traverse right and hold on to your hat! Climb directly up the steep
ice to where the angle abates somewhat at a snowy ledge.
WI 7+ Continue straight up on overhanging strenuous
ice until a slight traverse left avoids steeper ice and gains a
prominent snowy ledge.
WI 3+ Traverse left over a snowy arÍte to a hidden chimney where the
constriction glacier meets the left wall. Climb up to the top of the narrow
WI 2 Continue up the ice rink to the summit ridge/col. Rappel the route.