Power of the Gospel. 140m, IV WI 5, Nov, 01F.A. Dana Ruddy, Peter Kottegen
This route is in a high energy environment with amazing aesthetics andgreat exposure. “Power of the gospel,” climbs the wall that joins the large snow shelf below Echo Madness, in the Stutfield cirque. The first pitch scales some small cauliflowers before kicking back for about 30 m of vertical climbing to a ledge. The final two pitches are grade 4, although both are thin and good protection can be hard to find. There is some objective hazard on the route as a glacier tops the climb. The glacier, however, is set back from the top of the route about 20 m, and does not appear overly threatening. This, however, is something individuals will have to judge for themselves. Rappel the route.
Gear: - Ice screws, stubbys.An assortment of pins may come in handy. (hard to find good V-threads.)
Approach: As for the ice climb Echo Madness. Park at the Stutfield Glacier Lookout, on highway 93, about 90 km south of Jasper. “Power of the Gospel,” is located in the Stutfield cirque 800m, climbers left of echo Madness. There is about 200m of Glacier travel involved to the base. Once at the base there is a nice cave to belay from on climbers right of the route. It is about three hours to the climb.