Panama W5 M5 300m
Grant Statham and I climbed a new route on a little peak between Mt Columbia and King Edward. Follow the approach description in selected alpine climbs for Columbia North Ridge or, even better go to Alan Kane's website for King Edward approach beta. Go to the col over looking the head of the Athabasca River and go down a couple of 100m's and look left. You should see a Riptide looking feature on a face just after a small icefall. Walk past the icefall and a beautiful line comes into view. Just west of Columbia, hence the name.
100 degree glacial ice right off the deck for a couple of bodylengths then an apron to the base of the line. Five more long pitches getting increasingly harder and increasingly better protected as you go. Bring a 60m rope, a few screws, 8-10 pins (mostly kb's), medium wires and .5-3 camalots. Walk off to the south and back to your bivy. Two-three days round trip or one HUGE driving and climbing day.
It is a really good route-go do it! Someone should go do the riptide looking thing(actually it looks way harder than Riptide)but bring some bolts and big balls or big ovaries!
Cheers, Larry Stanier