THE ORACLE 450m IV WI4+X M4, Nov 6. FA:
Stephen Holeczi, Brian Webster, Rob Owens
WG Note: Barry Blanchard and Phillipe Pellet climbed
the first 300+M of this route on Nov 4, but the above team made the first full ascent
so they're getting credit. It's notable that "Bubba" and Tronc were on their
way to the Terminator but spun off sideways into the trees when they saw this
line, it does look brilliant!
Lots of stubbies/14 screws
Gear up to #2 camalot/set of nuts
A few KB's
Rob Owens, Brian Webster and myself climbed a
new route 300m left of Shampoo Planet on Mount Rundle Nov 6. The first two
pitches may follow the route Touch Me If You Can but in likely thinner
conditions. The Waterfall ice book describes that route in a left facing
corner, but we climbed a right facing one. We did find old pins at first two
anchor spots so WHO KNOWS! The whole route is very engaging and cerebral with
very long runouts. Majority of the ice is quarter inch to inch thick ice. It
is awesome. Description is as follows.
1) 60m WI4X Follow R. facing corner w/ gear
then move out right to thin ice and follow to top. Short M4 topout. Belay
oof horn at base of next pitch. (Possible to climb directly up corner w/
2) 60m WI4X Follow thin ice with sporatic rock
gear behind rotten ice curtains (cams) up to ever steepening ice (stubbies)
and then to 3 pin belay on small ledge.
3) 80m Scramble then walk to next pitch
4) 45m WI4X Climb more thin ice to a snow ledge and shallow ice
5) 60m WI4+X Climb 15m up to rock roof. (good rock gear/nuts,
cams, pins) Make steeper moves over small curtain then shoot for a red sling
with a pin (good #3 metolius) on thin ice. Belay somewhere above there! We
had a hanging belay off of abalokovs and stubbies just below another thin ice
6) 45m WI4X Climb yet another thin ice slab up to a small ledge
and slung icicle belay.
7) 60m WI4/4+X Climb 20m thin ice to curtain (Good screws
there). Climb thin ice which gets thick halfway up and stop where ice lessens
in angle. Good full screw belay.
8) 45m WI3 Climb great ice to top!
Brian Webster and I also climbed a fun 65m Grade 4 which is
50m left of Louise Falls that Brian(being a lifetime local) has never seen