Maligne Canyon

Break It Ya’ Buy It. 28 m, M8 WI 5, Feb, 02. F.A. Gary Boyd, Dana Ruddy.

“Break it ya buy it,” begins directly left of the ice climb “The Queen” in Maligne canyon, Jasper National Park. The route follows seven bolts for about 15m, where you gain a hanging curtain. Thedifficulty of the climb is possibly contingent on the length of the curtain. If the curtain is well formed you may be able to avoid the crux.

Gear: -7 quick draws, ice screws.

Approach: As for Maligne Canyon and The Queen.


Fools Gold. 28m, M6+ WI 4+, Jan 01, F.A. Sean Elliot, Dana Ruddy.

A moderate addition to the mixed climbs in Maligne Canyon. “Fools Gold,” begins 10m to the right of the Ice climb “The Queen,” in Maligne Canyon. Start under A small roof by either stick clipping the first bolt or tackling the boldering problem on the right hand wall. Climb steep rock and thin ice to a ledge. Clip two more bolts before climbing on to a short steep pillar to the top.

Gear: -3 quick draws, ice screws, long sling to possibly sling the pillar.

Approach: As for Maligne Canyon and The Queen.