The Icicle Fairy
Conditions have finally chilled to below freezing up here, so the Icicle Fairly is dropping new lines every morning. One of these is located on a cliff band on the south end of Mt. Andremicci (NOT Hector as previously believed) on the Icefields Parkway. The route is visible from the highway, some ice always forms but it hasn't ever touched down according to the rumour mill. Park in the small plowed lot at the base of the drainage, then walk up the creek following the packed trail left from skiers and a lynx researcher. Walk up the gully until you're slightly above and well right of the first pitch, then traverse in. The line falls in two obvious pitches about an hour above the car, very aesthetic.
Pitch one: Fun M6 on excellent rock to a free-hanging icicle, bolted protection put in on lead, 40M. Rap from the column at the base of pitch two.
Pitch two: WI5, three cool vertical columns, rap station on the water-worn rock to the right. You may also be able to scramble off climber's right and walk down, but I didn't do that.
Raphael Slawinski on Pitch One.
Here's Raphael's excellent description:
The Icicle Fairy ** 90 m III, M6 WI5
FA: Kim Csizmazia, Will Gadd and Raphael Slawinski, Nov. 23, 1999
This climb is situated on the south flank of Mt. Andremicci, and when formed is easily visible from the road. A short section of overhanging, bolt-protected dry-tooling leads to 2 pitches of varied ice. Good fun! Approach: Drive approximately 18 km up the Icefields Pkwy and park in a plowed pull-out on the west side of the road. Hike up the drainage at the south end of Mt. Andremicci, and when level with the route traverse left (north) to the base (1 hour). Route: Climb up to a belay ledge at the base of steeper rock (bolt on the left). Make steep moves (M6) past 3 bolts to a ledge behind a free-hanging dagger. Gently stem up behind the dagger past 3 more bolts and pull onto the front of the ice. Follow the Bourgeau-like ice strip above to an ice belay behind the upper pillar. The 2nd pitch climbs steep ice (WI5) for 30 m to a 2-bolt belay on the right. Descent: Rappel the route. The 1st rappel is from bolts, the 2nd from ice.