Lots of new routes going in, definitely a really fun area!
See Watefall Ice for total Beta, but the short version is park at the Marble Canyon/Warden station, cross the road, follow the trail for 30 minutes.
Sean's notes below cover his new routes, but the general order of the NEW routes is as follows when walking up the canyon.
The first new bolted route you come to is on the left, Swank, M8-(see Sean's notes below for a full description) There are several other bolted routes here, Swank is the farthest right. Across the creek and up the canyon about 100M in a small but testy cave is In Reverse, M7.
Next on the left is Guy Lacelle's thin and exciting, Minimum Impact, WI 5+R.
A bit farther up the canyon on the left is an open corner with lots of dangingling iciciles, very cool looking, Guy Lacelle, Put on Your Huggies, WI5+ Mixed fun. Hug those icicles baby.
Just up and on the right are three new lines, by some sort of combo Guy/Dave Thomson effort (Dave, email me and I'll figure this out). The first is A River Runs Through it, three bolts low and one high to protect the pillar, M6ish. The middle one, unknown name, has two bolts to a good ice finish, M6ish. The left one is rapidly disappearing behind ice, one bolt, WI 4+ or M6ish depending how much it fills in.
Up from there in the small ampitheater at the end of the lower canyon are two other routes on the left.
The Gong Show, M8+/M9-, Description by Fen Firth: "I nick named
left a da nest "The Gong Show" as the events of the day were less than worthy
getting myself over that car sized ledge without fear. I thought the bottam was about
M8+/M9- Concer? Not a great line but fits in with Hafner alright." This is the
project that Guy and I bolted, congrats to Ben for doing it, it seemed well desperate, an
interesting mix of climbing for sure!
Don't Mess With Da Nest, M7R, Natural Gear. Climb the ice pillar, place a bunch of gear in a horizontal, then bust up the overhang. Not as hard as it looks, but you're looking at a pretty good fall. I decided not to bolt this as I wanted people to respect the nest, it's a beauty. If you can climb it on the gear then you can probably keep your feet away from the nest. If I bolted it then it would get lots of ascents because it's really good, but then the nest would be exposed to lots of traffic.
By Sean Isaac
"In Reverse" M7 FA: Sean Isaac, Dec 5
2 bolts out a cave on very steep rock to a thin smear that will get harder
with more ascents. May accept Stubbies. Located upstream and across the
creek from the main area. probably doesn't form every year. Gadd note: named for Sean's discovery that a drill will work in reverse if pressed.
"Swank" M8 FA: Sean Isaac, Dec 9
Fartherest right most route in the main area. Climbs out a steep roof to
start then up a verglassed corner to a ledge and onto a short hanging
icicle to a 2 bolt anchor on a big ledge. 6 bolts on the route; no ice gear
needed. Forms every year.
Other Haffner bolted mix routes from previous years are in good shape.