For Father, 1000m, WI 6, VI, D. Marra, T. Schnugg
ski a km past slipstream, park da sticks and pick up
da picks, approach serac ice tongue like a sleeping
dragon, climb up center left (450m, gr.2), top out on
upper bowl, no-rest-for-the-wick over to base of
route, easy, rightside, tiered climbing for several
pitches to WI 5 and WI 6 pitches, belay on top of ice
ridge on climbers right below serac pitch, climb up on
climbers Left 25m, WI3-4 to serac death. Have 1000s of
lbs of serac ice cave, pull out some matrix move to
stay alive (like john T. in stayin' alive) and then
rap route being very thankful you never have to go
back to that place again.funfun.
T. Schnugg Note:
Saw your note on the route. To fill in the blanks, I did the route with him. Start / finish Feb 11, 2004. Conditions were primo. I threw together this montage of images from the day … as a reminder to me. May be of some reference to you.
ya know in ancient Egypt high priest would pluck all
the hair from thier bodies including thier eyebrows
come on kid , it'll grow back.