2003 New Field Routes
"Untwisted" M5 R WI 4 120m. P 1 follows the first pitch of Twisted to an ice screw belay below a roof (WI 3) 20m. P 2 moves left for about 8 meters on a snow ledge, then up a thin ice slab to a crack. Up the crack past two fixed pitons to more thin ice and a rock belay in good quartzite on the halfway ledge (M5 R) 40m. P 3 a few rock moves and excellent protection lead to an ice dagger and fat ice to the top (WI 4) 60m. Rappel on V-threads.
Cams to 2", nuts, a few knifeblades, screws, stubbies
F.A.: Rich Marshall, Abby Watkins
- "Glen Morangie" M6 WI 5 120m. P1 same as Untwisted. P2 moves left and up verglace, through an overlap onto more verglace to a roof, step left at roof (fixed piton) to more verglace and the halfway ledge (screw belay) - M6 45m.
P3 goes up thin ice and steep pillars to the top - WI 5 55m.
Standard mixed rack to 2 inches.
F.A.: Rene Cote, Jon Walsh
- "Daggermeister" M7 20m. A fun and well protected route on big free hanging dagger located on the cliff below and right of "Homebrew". Climb a small icicle, fire a six foot horizontal roof to gain the dagger (total of 4 bolts), then steep technical ice to the a bolted anchor above. There is also a single bolt belay anchor. Lots of Avy hazard in this gully so be aware of snow conditions.
F.A.: Jeff Relph, Jon Walsh
Cheers and enjoy!