Conclusion 120m, WI 3+, R Link

Location : West flank of south ridge Mt Storm, Highwood    82J/10 "Mt Rae", 466038

FA: Brad Cooke, Ian Hunt October 13th, 2002.

Approach : From N end of the Lost Lemon Mine pull out on the east side of  highway 40 (not 22 as previously reported), about 4.4 km south of the Highwood Meadows parking lot.  The climb is visible from the highway on the west flank of south ridge Mt Storm.  Trail follows left (N) bank of creek, same trail used for the southern ascent route of Mt. Storm as per Kanes description.  Follow the trail until in the upper valley at the start of the more northern bowl then cross the draingage and traverse south through small open meadows into the more southerly bowl, then follow a low moraine ridge to the snow slope (avalanche danger) and the base of the route (2 hrs in good conditions).  Although we climbed the route in two pitches (60m rope, some simul-climbing was needed) it is probably better as three pitches.

Climb : First pitch (40m) starts with low angle, but thin ice, gradually steepening  to a belay at a large block on the left (piton) below where the ice narrows to a few inches wide in a slot.  Second pitch (20m) - goes through the narrows, then follows the thicker ice right across a rising ledge to a corner (dubious piton, hopefully enough ice for screws).   Third pitch (60m) climb the ice in the corner, over a hollow section to the steeper but better ice above.  Continue straight up the corner, getting what protection you can (ice/rock) until you reach the snow above. Belay from rock on right a few meters up the gully (one piece in situ rock gear).  Descent by rappel, downclimb, rappel.

Pictures there... its in now too, but watch the snow on the approach.