The Chinook Chute” WI3R, 165m, Greg Cornell, Jan. 2005

Wait for a Chinook until the hillsides are somewhat
snowfree. It is the leftmost ravine before big cliffs
along the Opal Ridge about 3.5km north of Fortress
Junction or 2km north of the ice route
Park at a “Authorized Vehicles Only” sign and the
first pitch can be easily seen from a grassy hillside
above the Hwy. Walk up the old road for 100m to a
cutline of high powerlines. Walk north a bit and hike
through thinning trees eventually to the rocky
creekbed that leads directly to this deep ravine. Drop
in from the left just before the ice.(30+ min.)

Climb a thick 5m pillar. Walk/climb for 100m up the
snow/ice ravine. At the end of the ice, move into a
trippy, 1m wide, parallel sided chute (gap in the
bedding planes). A delicate vein of ice (1-2” thick)
goes up the entire steep 60m. The crux is tooling over
a bulge near the top.
Exit out right then up forested ice(seep that feeds
the chute). Go right and down. Rap a tiny cliff and
hike slopes back to the start.
2 screws and some pins is plenty.