Carpe Diem, WI 5, 5.9, IV, 11 pitches, 600 m, Mt. Weiss, Mar 02, 2005. FA: David Marra, Chris Meyers, Randy Colwell
Park on side of road, route visible from the road, North of Sunwapta Falls, 5-10mins drive.
Ski in using a clearing on the Right of the main drainage to gain upper valley. Cross flats and lake to treeline, easy 2hrs, we biivied here. From treeline gain snow slope to sub-alpine, cross lake and head up the moraine, cross flat glacier to steeper glacial tongue to base of route, 2hrs from treeline.
Carpe Diem is a great line with no cornicing atop. There are one pin rap anchors (backup first) on right of ice.
The other obvious ice line on the right of the photo was completed last year by Dana Ruddy and myself. This is a three-star, pure, ice line. WI 5, IV, 550m, Wiess the Day. Rap on v-threads. Bring small rock rack and pins for anchors, include some stubbies in the ice rack.
The left-middle line, right beside Carpe Diem, is umclimbed but looks less involved with less ice on more moderate terrain.
Dance like no ones' watchin', diamond dave
Note: virtually all pitches full rope length
P1 – WI 5
P2 -- WI 5
P3 – WI 3
P4 – WI 4
P5 – WI 2, 5.4
P6 – WI 2, 5.6
P7 – WI 2, 5.7
P8 – 10, easy mixed, snow
P11 – WI 4, 5.9
Here’s a link to peakfinder.com with a description of Mt. Weiss: