New Mixed Routes at Boom Lake
Approach: Hike to the end of the lake and continue towards the headwall. Head up the third major gully on the left, about 300m past "Red Commie Star" and "Screw Prison" to an obvious large blue curtain. Approximately 3 hours to the base. The two routes are on the left hand side of the curtain. I don't know the name of the curtain but apparently it has been climbed by Glen Reisenhofer a while ago. There are two smears of ice that pour off the rock left of the curtain, "Hang in There" climbs to the left smear and "WK&PT" climbs to the right one. There is avalanche hazard both above the routes and on the approach.
"Hang in There"- M6 WI4 40m, Tal Niv and Scott McMillan, March 2005
-This is the left hand route to the obvious haning pillar. Climb up to the base of a left-trending ramp. Follow this to below the right side of the hanging ice flow, clip a bolt and continue up the ice to the top. The bolt is at the crux, the rest of the route is climbed on gear, KBs, nuts, and a #2 camalot. May want a #4 camalot for the wide crack at the back of the ramp to reduce runout.
"Wheat Kings and Pretty Things"- M6+ WI4 40m, Scott McMillan and Tal NIv, March 2005
-start about 2m right of "Hang in There" or just left of the arete. Climb pretty much straight up towards the left side of the ice. Hook the top of a block (appears solid) and reach right to the ice. Follow the ice till it connects with the ice above "Hang in There". Climbed on gear: small to med nuts and knifeblades. May want some stubbies for the ice.
Rappel both routes from abalakovs.
When the routes were done there was significant snow build up in the gully at the base. If anyone returns earlier in the season with less snow, feel free to add a bolt or two down low to make the starts safer. I did some digging and I don't think the routes would be any harder with less snow, just longer and more fun.
----Original Message Follows----
From: "tal niv" <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Subject: hay scott, i got back from Jasper
Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2005 00:55:48 +0000