FA Jeff Honig, Ben Firth Nov 3 2002
Climb the first 6 or so pitches of Balzac up to 5.9, (we used rock shoes and hands), as per bow valley rock and then traverse right just below the tree onto the ice. 4 and a half pitches of ice and mixed up to M5 WI4, lead to a final pitch and a half of rock (5.6) to the top. No bolts, bring full rock rack including pins, as well as 6-8 screws. All belays were on rock. Topo and photos to follow.
Note. there is another 30m of ice/mixed below where we got onto the ice. It was very thin, detached and running with water when we tried it. There is a traverse ledge up and right from balzac, about 70m past the crux rivet section of balzac about when you can first see the large tree above you.