Balzout 475m 5.9 M5 WI4

FA Jeff Honig, Ben Firth Nov 3 2002

    Climb the first 6 or so pitches of Balzac up to 5.9, (we used rock shoes and hands), as per bow valley rock and then traverse right just below the tree onto the ice. 4 and a half pitches of ice and mixed up to M5 WI4, lead to a final pitch and a half of rock (5.6) to the top.  No bolts, bring full rock rack including pins, as well as 6-8 screws.  All belays were on rock.  Topo and photos to follow.

Note.  there is another 30m of ice/mixed below where we got onto the ice.  It was very thin, detached and running with water when we tried it.  There is a traverse ledge up and right from balzac, about 70m past the crux rivet section of balzac about when you can first see the large tree above you.