The Asylum IV M7 WI5, 180m FA: Jim Gudjonson, Sean Isaac Feb
The obvious unformed curtain in Kicking Horse Canyon to the right of the
Essondale ice routes. The upper ice forms every year but the first three
pitches are less consistent and seem to form differently every year. The
rock is quartzite and very hard to drill, hence the single bolt anchors on
the first two pitchs. The bolts are good and can be backed up with stubby
screws but must be trusted singlely for the descent (via rappel). Sorry!
Feel free to add another bolt to each of the first two belays.
pitch 1: very thin ice with minimal pro (WI4R). bring some nuts, pins and
stubby screws. 1 bolt anchor. 45m
pitch 2: climb more thin ice (WI3) following the weakness which trends left
to belay at the left edge of the upper apron. 1 bolt anchor. 40m
pitch 3: easy thick ice to big ledge under unformed curtain. 2 bolt anchor.
pitch 4: dry tool out the left side of the rock overhang past 9 bolts to
the drip then climbthree meters of ice traversing right to a cave and 2
bolt anchor. 20m
pitch 5: climb steep ice to the top and a tree anchor. 30m