American Triangle Revisited

Back in '98 Dave Thomson, Eric Dumerac and Pat Farrel bolted and climbed the first pitch of this enticing smear. On Nov. 21 Kim Csizmazia and I (WG) went up there to do the "first ascent," not knowing that this was another Thomson project in residence. Three Fixe bolts led us to suspect Thomson involvement, and an American triangle at the end of the first pitch confirmed it. Kim and I found some hard dry tooling (M8+) to reach a very anemic curtain, which barely lasted long enough for me to climb before I broke it off--Kim had to prusik the rope, good thing she's an aid climber. It's too bad the ice broke, this is a really good pitch. The first pitch ends at a two-bolt American triangle in an alcove up and left. Dave had tried the second pitch in '98 but had been thwarted by warm temps. Kim found the climbing difficult but feasible via a tricky traverse to hollow ice. This route is in a great setting, we had some stellar spindrift roll through, but that spindrift forms a massive pocket under the route. Beware if our generally good base turns into depth hoar...

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Approach: Drive north from Bow Summit until the road is as close as it's going to get to the Mistaya river, about 2K before the Riptide parking lot. Walk back up the Mistaya river until the avalanche path/drainage comes in from the west, hike up it to the route. We took two hours, would have been faster but it was a serious wallow fest for the last few hundred meters to the route...