Against All Odds FA Sean Easton, Ben Firth, Eric Dumerac, Jan 2003
The route goes up the left side of the North East Face of Mt.Epaulette (left of Choksondik).
Can't say to much on this, dangerous avy slopes and definte serac hazard, be warned to all who venture beyond.
Approach as for Virgin no more:
Beware of Avalanche conditions as this route has alot of objective danger to approach and on the route. This is also compounded by the serac activity from the upper glacier.
1-3 pitches, 180m 6X: Climb vertical snow/ice. There is so much spindrift
coming down this route that the ice is slowly morphing into snow itself. The
pro and sometimes belays are minimal so bring lots of cord for threading
larger icicles and long screws for biting as much ice as possible.2/3 of the
way up this wall a small cave is found on the left which provides a little
solace from the spindrift and marginal pro(good belay). Climb fast as any
activity from above will sweep any and every morsal of debris off the face,
We climbed another 500 metres through hideous spindrift, avy slopes, alpine mixed and easy Water ice before rapping and decsending the route. It still needs a finish to the summit as we obviously didn't make it that far. We consider the lower water ice as a new route as it has never been done (I think)...
Once again beware of the objective hazard.
note: name derived from hideous spindrift(it was like it was snowing a foot a sec being in it)and from me going virtually blind half way up.This came from ice crystal spindrift getting under my contacts and scratching my eyes to shit. Probably a similar sensation to going snow blind, the upper half of the route, descent and trek out is one of the hardest things I've ever done. Spent next morning in emergency, had to wear eye patches for 4 days after.
-I'm picking up the letter from Bob Sat if you need a copy let me know