U2 ** 60 m III, M7+ WI5+ R
(Gadd editorial note--the M7+ rating may be conservative as Doctor Slawinski is climbing rather well--he seems reticent to admit this even to himself. The "Plus" may mean a big plus. That said, this sounds like an excellent route with full House of Youth motivation!)
FA: Ben Firth, Rob Owens, Raphael Slawinski, Eamonn Walsh, January 3, 2000.
This is the direct rock start to the (usually) unformed pillar of Ulis Revenge. The mixed start features strenuous and tenuous drytooling to steep and delicate ice climbing. The climb commands an outstanding position, and apart from a 50 m slope below the route, avalanche hazard is minimal.
Approach as for Ulis Revenge.
Climb: Start directly below the hanging ice (single bolt belay). Drytool past several bolts and a pin behind a suspect block to a fragile dagger. Continue up detached vertical ice to better ice and a cave belay on the left. Another half-pitch on good ice leads to the top.
Descent: Rappel the route (single rappel with two 60 m ropes).