Transparent Fool Area New Mixed Routes, 2005
Not sure if anyone is still psyched on more mixed climbing this season but recently put up a couple fun new mixed routes to the right of Transparent Fool. I have looked at these for awhile but the ice is rare to form so if keen go do them. Both are really fun and may not form again for some time. Thye involve a mixed of bolts, bomber trad gear and asthetic ice features. The ice on the lower part of Good Friday is slowly melting out but is still climbable and pretected with stubbies and a deep hand/fist crack on its right edge. Check out a photo topo of Good Friday at Louis's website www.mountainx.ca <http://www.mountainx.ca> . A good trail is presently packed up.
Good Friday M6 WI5 5.10, 35m
FA: Joe Buszowski, Sean Isaac, Loius-Julien Roy, Mar. 05.
A fun and varied traditional mixed route (except for 1 protection bolt) that follows a sweet natural line on good rock. If no ice is present on the lower part of pitch 1, a chunky hand crack may be climbed instead.
Rack: Double set of cams to #3 Camalot and 1 #4 Camalot, stoppers, and stubbies.
1) M6 WI4+, 25m. Climb a thin smear of ice in the corner to leaning squeeze chimney (bolt). Wiggle and stem up and over a steep chockstone roof (fixed sling) then move left past blocks (#3 camalot) to a ledge with a 2 bolt chain anchor.
2) 5.10, 10m. Jam finger and hand crack up corner and out the roof onto the overhanging headwall. Lower back down from the 2-bolt anchor jusr below the lip of the cliff. This pitch was rock climbed with bare hands and rock shoes because it is easier this way compared to the technical torquing that would be required if drytooled.
Descent: Lower back to middle belay from top anchor then rappel to the ground.
Translucent Moron M6 WI5, 30m
FA: Joe Buszowski, Sean Isaac, Apr. 05.
This sometimes-formed sliver of ice is found on the rounded buttress between Good Friday and Opaque Idiots.
Gear: Stubbies, nuts and a couple mid-sized cams.
3 bolts gain the bottom of a skinny pillar which is followed to where it ends under a chockstone roof. Surmount this impasse (good rock gear) and wiggle into an easy squeeze chimney to a flake ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. Either rappel or continue up the chimney of Opaque Idiots.
Descent: Rappel route from 2 bolt anchor. Currently has cord on the hangers; needs chains or better webbing.