January 7, 2004 (?) FA The Shire, WI 4, 60m, Dave Marra, Tom Schnugg
Location: Just off the highway, south east side of the green bridge approximately 1 km north of Weeping Wall and 1 km south of the big bend. The Shire is the obvious right-most gully waterfall ice line to the right of the river falls proper in this mystical ravine.
Approach: 5 min. From the south east end of the bridge, blaze a trail safely above the drop-off into the ravine towards the trees and then directly to the top of the climb. There are a few trees on the slope above the top of the climb where you can create your anchor.
The climb: Rap down the waterfall ice fall to the base of the ravine. Follow the same general route back up. The ice resembles perfectly smoothed, undulating beach glass … and don’t forget to explore the surprise ice stalactites in the cave about 3⁄4 the way up … clearly where hobbits come to frolic. This calls for a new grade … WI Magic!
There are some other routes in there as well, Dave Marra sends a new description: under da bridge are a few good mod. climbs....
climber Left (beside the unfrozen main flow) is Misty
Panties.......to the Right (in a corner) is Whatever
the fuck Tom called it......to the right 50ish meter
(directly under the bridge) is Skinny Green Man.
Misty Panties, WI 4, 65m
20m right of whatever-the-fuck the other route was
called by Tom,
p1 22m WI 4 to tree belay
scramble for 2mins to p2 WI 4 for 33m, tree belay
Skinny Green Man, WI 4, 5.7, 18m
directly below the bridge on the South (weeping wall)
side is free hanging ice with easy, good rock. rapped
from very small pillar atop.