Stuck in the Middle ** 145 m V, M7R, WI6
F.A. Feb. 26, 2000 by Rob Owens and Patricia Deavoll
Stuck in the Middle is located between The Replicant and Troubled
Dreams on the Terminator Wall on Mt. Rundle. Neither the bottom pitch of
The Replicant or Troubled Dreams was formed when this was done. The
line climbs past and over three horizontal roofs to gain the upper pitches
of The Replicant, as it was seen on the first ascent. Take an extensive
rack including ice screws, T.C.U.s and Camalots to 3, 10-12 pitons, and a
partial set of nuts. Two self drive bolts were placed to prevent long run
out sections over loose rock. This line could be considered "The Replicant"
unformed, but actually climbs a line that was visible when the F.A. of the
Replicant was done.
Climb very thin, poor quality ice to gain a crack/weakness on the left side
of the ice smear. Follow this crack(1 bolt), passing the roof on the left
side. The crack becomes a corner that arcs to the right and eventually
allows passage to fat ice below the second roof. Belay possible using ice
Climb the ice until it ends below the second roof. Good rock gear is
available under the roof. Pull over the roof and gain thin ice to the right
of the hanging dagger. Climb good quality, protectable, ice until it
diminishes below the third roof. Climb thin ice and a loose, vertical rock
section(bolt) to the base of the horizontal roof. Pull out over the roof and
gain steep ice of varying quality. Another 20 meters of relentlessly steep
ice will take you to the end of a 50 meter rope. 50 meters, M7.
Another 70 meters of steep, good quality WI 6 ice will take you to the top.
Rappel using V-Threads.
The third roof that is climbed is part of Troubled Dreams. The first
ascentionists of Troubled Dreams protected the traverse up and into the
roof using ice screws in ice that would most likely cover the bolt that we
placed on our ascent. I do not believe that the bolt we placed will lessen
the seriousness of what Troubled Dreams was like on the first ascent. A
fall from the roof, onto the bolt, would be quite serious!
All three roofs, that we climbed in the first two pitches, could be climbed
in one pitch from the ground.
By Rob Owens.
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