Stairs and Flowers, V M8 WI5+, 200 m of climbing
FA: Eric Dumerac and Raphael Slawinski, January 26, 2001
Flowers is the mixed version of Acid Howl on the Stanley Headwall, bypassing the two
frequently unformed pillars on that route by challenging drytooling variations. The rock
sections are bolt-protected, so a rack of 15 draws (including some long slings) and screws
will suffice. Double ropes are nice due to the traversing nature of the mixed pitches, and
required for rappelling.
as for Acid Howl. Beware of avalanche hazard on the large slope below the route. Scramble
up low-angled snow and ice to the base of the first pitch.
- M7+ WI4, 30 m. The first pitch climbs
the groove/crack just right of the ice of Acid Howl. Starting from the highest ledge,
climb up to a roof. Pull the roof (crux) into an easier but sustained groove. At the last
bolt, trend left to the ice. Continue up funky ice to a single bolt belay on the right.
- WI3, 30 m. Climb easy ice to the snow
slope below the upper pillars. There is a single bolt anchor on the right near the bottom
of the slope. Walk up snow to the right-hand pillar.
- M8 WI5+, 50 m. The crux pitch climbs
the obvious overhanging dihedral to the left edge of the right-hand pillar. Belay on a
small platform a few metres below the base of the overhanging wall (single bolt belay).
From the ledge at the base of the wall, steep moves lead up to the dihedral. It is
recommended to pre-clip the first 3 bolts, as they are difficult to reach while climbing.
Follow the overhanging dihedral to below the upper roof. A tricky traverse left under the
roof leads to the ice. Bash your way out through the curtain and follow the steep ice
above to a comfortable cave belay.
- WI4, 40 m. Climb the ice pillar on the
right to the upper snow and ice slope. Walk up this to the base of the upper headwall.
- WI5, 50 m. A choice of several steep
smears leads to a ledge below the overhanging rock headwall.
rappel the route from abalakovs and bolts.
at left Raphael Slawinski on Acid Howl/Stairs and Flowers, photo by Frank
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