Specter's Alley 250m WI4+ (30m of real climbing), Phantom Showers (due to the spindrift pounding I took on the last pitch)
180m WI 4+R, Steve Holeczi and Marco Delesalle
Photos Here, good stuff
Dec 6 Update from Eric Hoogstraten:
The routes that Steve has discovered in the drainage on the south side of the valley at the park boundary were climbed several years ago by Eric Hoogstraten and an assortment of partners. 3 routes lead out of the main drainage 2 of which have bolted anchors. Steve alludes to the middle set of anchors which are the only ones visible. The main flow was done in excellent ice conditions (but heavy snow pack) that required only v thread anchors. All routes unnamed thus far.
WG Note--This is always a problem, there is no real central route reporting storage, although most are up on this site. Because Steve and Marco sent the reports in I'm going to keep these pages up so others can figure it all out for the next guidebook etc. Pretty cool in a way that a route can have multiple first ascents, shows that things are always different and that Eric didn't leave much evidence of his ascent as is best.
Drove west past the Sliver and going to the Sun Highway to the next drainage
west (not in the guidebook) the park boundary. Hiked south up obvious
drainage for 20 minutes into a classic ghost hidden alleyway. One climb in
the alley on the side wall has been done (WI4?) but further up we found more
Specter's Alley 250m WI4+ (30m of real climbing)
Climb 30m of chandaliered/roofy ice to flat ledge (pin/nut anchor) then walk
and ramble up WI 2 steps with a great ambiance and rock walls until its end.
This spits you out into the "Hanging Valley of Lost Souls"
(The wind was howling so loud today it sounded like screams)
Up and right in this beautiful alpine valley we found another untouched line
Phantom Showers (due to the spindrift pounding I took on the last pitch)
180m WI 4+R
Rack: Stubbies and 13's , a few KB's, angles and some small to medium nuts
P1 WI4R 50m Thin ice and short pillar up to snow ledge (nut, pin belay)
P2 WI3R 50m Scratch up Scottish veneer and the odd rock move to a snow ledge
P3 WI4+R50m Climb hollow pillar to ever thickening ice up to screw anchor
30m of WI2 above to bowl.