The Sound and the Fury, Jeff Relph, Paul McSorley and Tom Gruber, Stanley Headwall, Nov '04
New route yesterday at headwall. Obvious smear halfway between Nightmare on wolf st. and Uniform queen.
Cut through trees and approach directly up a small rib feature.
Pitch 1 is thin with poor pro. Fixed knife blade at top.
30m WI 5+ R
Hanging belay on left at bolts.
Pitch 2. Traverse right from belay on very thin ice to a bolt. A couple mixed moves lead up to a good cam crack under an overlap. Clip 1 more bolt and commit to the thin curtain. Steep sustained and thin climbing for 40m leads to easier ice and eventually a belay in the large snow bowl above.
60m M7 WI6
You will require 10 screws, mostly stubbies, a number 2 or 3 camalot and around 12 draws mostly screamers. Enjoy
Beware of snow conditions a there is a sizable bowl above the route.