10m left of Shampoo Planet is a corner system that offers an alternative start to the original line, should another party have beaten you there.
Pitch 1 follows a right trendinig corner into a groove for about 25m. The belay can be constued out of 2 knifeblade pitons in the sickle shaped groove, 1m below a large ledge. Why...
Pitch 2 leaves easiest from below the ledge, following a shallow groove and side pulls through featureless slab to a ledge on the right. Easily 5.9 and in need of a bolt or two. Once at the ledge just left of the ice locate the fixed pin in the corner up and left of the ledge and back up with a good cam. Put on crampons and traverse out to the ice...the very thin ice. Climb up 5m, at which point the ice nears the rock and a larger cam can be placed on the left. At this point The original Shampoo Planet joins the ice from the other side.
Gear List selection of short, thin pitons: KB's - LA's
1 Lucky Shallow Angle
F.A. Peter Macpherson / Jeff Perron
November 29 1999
Why 'Poo Planet ? The first pitch is shit and after the second, your pants are full of it !