Pity us Fools V, w.i 5+, 5.7, 70meters
Report by Rob Owens
F.A. Rob Owens and Graham Maclean November 9, 1999
Map reference: 82 j/11, 203225
The second, large, bowl to the left of First Blood. This route
isn't visible from the road and was found as a result of a very early start
to go and do First Blood. The approach took us four hours, including three
hours of brutal bushwacking, leading nowhere. This henious approach was the
derivitive for the name of the route. The approach described below will be
This is a cold area. I am sure that this route will come in early
every year. There is considerable exposure to avalanches on the approach.
Approach: Park 6.2 km south of the Burstall Pass parking lot(just
beyond the junction with James Walker Creek). Head up the obvious drainage
on the west side of the road which is the Murray Creek drainage. After
about an hour and a half of bush skiing( a wee bit grovelly) you will be in
the bowl above. Shortly after, the route will become visible in the far
right hand side of the bowl. Negotiate potential avalanche terrain to the
base of the route. Total approach time: 2.5/3 hours. Worth it!
Pitch one: 30 meters. Thin ice and easy mixed. W.I 3, 5.7. Pins useful.
Pitch two: 40 meters. 10 meters of wi 4, 15 meters of protectable
overhanging chandaliers to a bomber rest, followed by a overhanging pillar
for 15 meters. Hard climbing with good rests and good gear.
Rappel the route, off ice anchors.