New Routes in the Canadian Rockies-Home

These obviously aren't all the new routes, just the ones people have sent me. Please send yours to gadd@gravsports.com if you have one, I'll do my best to put it up ASAP. I'll put anything up that people send, it's nice to have a variety of new options. The new Waterfall Ice is out now with some of these routes in it, and Sean Isaac's new  Mixed guide is out, both are great resources for Rockies Icicle hunters. Happy hunting! The information here is as accurate as the contributors and I can make it but not gospel. Let me know if you find an error and I'll fix it, thanks.

2006/2007 Season

New Ghost Route (Matchstick Maker), 5.8, WI 5, January 7th, Stephen O'Brien and Cory Richards

David Thompson Corridor: Good Training [WI3, 60m] T.Elson and R.Burden - 2nd Jan 2007.

Frigging with Gear, Tyler Jones and Ian Welsted (New Route Right of Dances with Chaos, looks cool!)

More Hidden Ice WAY up Cougar Creek, Chris Willie

More to come soon!

2005/2006 Season

Ghoster Coaster WI 3+ III 135m FA Brandon Pullan, Michelle Spakowski, Noel Gingrich. March 19/06. Above Canadian Forks, left drainage, sounds like a good one.

New Routes in the third cirque on Rundle: We climbed a 25m WI4 Pillar (Lucky Logger FA Brandon Pullan and Noel Gingrich) about 200m above Loggers Road WI 2, 30m. We then climbed a 40m WI3 (Sitting Duck FA Brandon Pullan and Noel Gingrich) about 300m right of High Plain Drifter. And we then climbed a new climb 30m left of drifters first pitch up a iced slab (42m M5) that can be connected to the second pitch of high plains drifter via a tree'd ledge.. Cold Cow 90m M5 WI3 FA Brandon Pullan and Noel Gingrich (gear to two inches).

Pink Cadillac, Louise Falls, 60M (?) M6+, WI4R, Grant Meekins and Royal Laybourn

New Parkway Route: The Great Escape M7+ WI 4 Jyoti Venne, Joe Buszowski, Kevin Dyck, Feb 2006
"Everyone says their routes are fantastic, but this one really is!! " (WG--Sounds like a good one!

Drytool Bouldering, Feb 23, Greg Cornell
T
his is not a route but info to a great, tricky traverse less than 10 minutes from the road, but you can go up the WI2 ice too: 'Cousin Ironman', Dec./05 by G.Cornell

Balzout Direct IV M8+ Wi5 525 metres, EEOR, Dana Ruddy Eamonn Walsh FFA Raphael Slawinski, Ian Welsted
Big new route.

Great White Fright IV M6 WI4, EEOR, Ben Firth, Raphael Slawinski, Eamonn Walsh
The oft-looked at but not climbed winter version of the Guide's route, Eammon says, "Not a technically desperate route, but an adventurous outing. Follow the Guides Route on Eeor for 10 pitches, then head up left into the main upper corner past two trees to a belay below where the ice starts. We climbed the ice in 5 pitches." That's big too.

House of Fools : LB/ME/JL 2 meters, Gr 6
"If you build it, they will climb it. Under the cover of darkness, 3 fools stepped outside of the Ice Climbing box to complete, to their knowledge, the first CFA. (Castle FA)"

Stanley Headwall, Drama Queen 170m M7 WI6FA: Chris Brazeau, Jon Simms, Jon Walsh Jan 5, 2006

New route, ‘FAso’ 50m, WI2 route by G.Cornell, Dec.2005 Approach as for Solid Cold above the Fortress Gas Bar.

New Route in K-Country, Heavenly Bush, WI 3, 175M, III F.A. Jan 7/06 Allen Treasure, Shauna Morey, & Will Kahlert.

Solstice, new route very close to Calgary: Solstice WI 3+  II 137m (450') F.A. Kevin Watson, Kyle Watson - Dec 22 2005 Photos.

New alpine route on Kidd, Raphael Slawinski, Valerie Babonov, Dec 30th (Photos too). Looks long.

Possible new route Elk Lakes, Dec. 30, Janez Ales and Donald Otten, (photos)
50m to the left of EMF is a free hanging dagger with a big cone underneath it, another 200 m to the left is a flow climbed by Donald Otten and Janez Alex.Elk Horn, WI 5-, 70m.

Stanley Headwall, Dawn of the Dead M8+ WI6, 140m FA: Sean Isaac, Dave Thomson, Dec. 05. A good new one on the headwall.


Elk Lakes new routes, sounds good, new WI 6 from Eamonn Walsh & Raphael Slawinski and a nice WI4 from last year.

Two new routes, Nordegg Area - J. Mills, Brent Young, Dec 4

Blaeberry Express - Hepberg Creek, Blaeberry Valley B.C. GR975035
220 m M6 WI 6 - F.A. Rich Marshall, Jon Walsh - Dec 1, 2005
Looks like a good one, impressive to find something this cool so close to the road.

Highwood Pass New Routes: King’s Breath (III W4 80m) FA: Lise Beaulieu and Colin Wooldridge, Nov. 6 2005 , and Cursed Goddess (III W2+ 80m) FA: Colin Wooldridge, Nov. 6 2005

The Brink (IV, W3, 5.8 - 450m) FA: J. Mills - Nov 23, '05 Quote, "A highly reccomended alpine route in the front ranges near Nordegg.  Best winter alpine route in the David Thompson Corridor."

Notorious B.G.G. (Billy Goats Gruff), III 90m WI4. FA:  J. Mills, Brad Boychuck - Nov 19, 05 North of Rampart Creek
 
Ninja Van (III W5, 110m ice) FA: J. Mills - Nov 15, 05. This route is found on Mount Wilson quite a ways Right of Oh La Tabernac.

The Maul, 300M, WI thin, M7, Slawinski/Gadd, Nov. 20th 2005, and Klatu Verata N... 200 m, WI3 M6 Robert Rogoz & Raphael Slawinski, Nov. 13, 2005 (photos) Two new routes on the north face of the Wedge, good alpine action for one-day routes relatively close to the road.

Jelly Legs, Spray Road , FA Jeff Glynn and Andy Arts Nov. 5, 2005. A burly early season hiking session...

Boys in the Hood, Hood Creek , 100m? (?), WI 3+. Andy Arts and Steve Byrne, Oct. 28th 2001

2004/2005 Season

NE face of the Mount Sir Douglas, IV M5 400m Valeri Babanov & Mark Toth, May 5, 2005. Sounds like a good one, let me know if this has been done, Valeri is curious.

Only Fools and Horses WI 3  25m FA (?) Jan 9th 2005, Ian Hunt and Robin Owens. Right of GBU in the ghost

M31, IV M4, (300M?), Andromeda. FA: Valeri Babanov & Raphael Slawinski, April 10, 2005, possibly an earlier ascent?) This fun (?) moderate alpine route parallels the Andromeda Strain on the right, and tops out on the very summit of Mt. Andromeda.

Three's a Crowd- M5+ WI4, 40m, FA Scott McMillan and Lynette Lo. Pillar above and to the right of the second pitch of Political world.

Carpe Diem, WI 5, 5.9, IV, 11 pitches, 600 m, Mt. Weiss, Mar 02, 2005. FA: David Marra, Chris Meyers, Randy Colwell. Looks like a long, good moderate route.

New Mixed Routes Transparent Fool Area, Sean Isaac, Joe Buszowski, Louis Julie Roy. Two new fun mixed routes.

Virgin Sanctuary, III, WI5 85m, FA Stephen O'Brien, March 2005, Yoho Canyon, about 300m up river
beyond "The Far Side."

New Mixed Routes at Boom Lake, Hang in There and Wheat Kings and Pretty Things, FAs Tal Niv and Scott McMillan, March 2005,

Club Tropicana – III, WI 4+, 55m.FA – Dean Mounsey, Adrian Nelhams, 14th March 2005. Mt. Sheol, looks like a good new area, see routes below too.

Tainted Love – III, WI 6, 70m. FA – Dean Mounsey, Adrian Nelhams, 24th March 2005. Mt. Sheol

Under My Thumb – III, M4+, WI5, 55m. FA – Dean Mounsey, Adrian Nelhams, 26th March 2005. Mt. Sheol also.

BlowValley ManGravy and the Angry Inch, WI5 M5, 30m R Chris Meyers and David Marra, Crowfoot area, Spring 2005. (this route deserves an award for its name...).

Chokdavdik WI 5, 5.7 225m D.Edgar D.Marra, 2001 (unreported from 2001)

Dread Circus, 500M, WI 5+ (?) White Pyramid,FA Michael Boos and Pierre Darbellay, Feb 2005. A fine new line right of Reality Bath, sounds like Boos had a nice vacation!

Boot Full of Inconsistent Logic, IV 90m WI 4, Cordell Friesen, Jeremy Kroeker, December 27/04. David Thompson Highway

New Black Prince Routes, Feb 15, 2005 Claire Macdonald, Tom Schnugg, Dave Marra. Black Prince bowl. (Couples therapy, Dripping Axe Wound Mexican radio.)

The Provider, WI 5 thin mixed, 120m, FA David Marra, Randy Colwell  March 04/05 This three pitch route is between 'The Stage' and 'Lennon meets Slayer..Imagine'.  It is visible from the road, park and approach as for 'Wings and the Stage'.

NE Couloir of Murchison, WI2, 5.6, II,FA: Claire Macdonald and David Marra, March 09/05

New Routes in Hafner Cave, FA Various, Possible M14?

Two new routes in King's Creek, FA David Marrra and Claire Macdonald, March '05 (Blackjack and Emperor's New Groove)

Spontaineous Laughing DisorderM8+ 25 meters, FA: Rich Marshall, Jon Walsh, Jan '05. Kicking Horse Canyon

Hurry up, there's beer in the car! WI4, 27m, Jyoti Venne, Kevin Dyck, Nov 2004. Ghost

The Chinook Chute WI3R, 165m Greg Cornell, Jan. 2005. Opal Ridge.

Screw Prison, 55m, 3+, Bill Chappel, Stephen O'Brien Dec '04, Boom Lake

Call of the Beef Curtains, WI 4thin, 5.7, 120m Oct 31/04 David Marra and Chris Meyer. Sounds like a good mulit-pitch outing.

Jeu de Chiens III Wi 4+ 150 metres. Chris Delworth, Dave Edgar, Eamonn Walsh, Dec '04

The Wicked Witch of the West V M6 R-X, WI6 R, 190m, Guy Lacelle, Rich Marshall, 400m left of Mon
Ami. Dec 2004. Another good new Protection Cirque route.

New Jasper-Area Routes, Sean Elliot Lots of action up there, get amongst! (Ranger CreeK; Choss Wrangler, A Ghost is Born, Thin Lizzie, Diamond in the Rough. Sunwapta: Diamond Cutter)

Wolverines in New York, 110m IV, WI 5+. Tangle Ridge, David Marra and Claire (too wild for the
masses) Macdonald, Nov./04

Mt. Wilson: Rivers of Babylon WI 5+ M6+ 400 m, Jon Walsh, Paul McSorley. Mt. Wilson between Mixed Monster and Ice Nine. One of the longer new routes this season, looks like a good one.-wg

Nordegg Area: "Hosers against Bush" M7, J. Mills

Storm Creek Drainage, Cosban, M5, 100Mn M5 100metres Josh Briggs, Eamonn Walsh

New Routes in the Curtain Call Area: Lennon Meets Slayer....Imagine. 100m , WI 4R, M5, III. The Britney-Gwar Connection, 115m,WI 4R, M4, III. Both by David Marra, Claire Macdonald

Paradis Perdu; WI5, 170m, FA Nov 15th 2004 by Audrey Gariepy, Mathieu Audibert, Heather Slowinski and Guy Lacelle. It's a long walk into the cirque between Castle and Protection, but there are a lotof high-quality routes in there.

Goose Abuse III Wi 5 60 meters Eamonn Walsh, Scott Withers, Nov 04. A shorty up Storm Creek.

Specter's Alley 250m WI4+ (30m of real climbing), Phantom Showers (due to the spindrift pounding I took on the last pitch)
180m WI 4+R, Steve Holeczi and Marco Delesalle. Dec 6 Update from Eric Hoogstraten: The routes that Steve has discovered in the drainage on the south side of the valley at the park boundary were climbed several years ago by Eric Hoogstraten and an assortment of partners. 3 routes lead out of the main drainage 2 of which have bolted anchors. Steve alludes to the middle set of anchors which are the only ones visible. The main flow was done in excellent ice conditions (but heavy snow pack) that required only v thread anchors. All routes unnamed thus far.

The Silmarillion IV Wi 6+ X 150 metres, FA Chris Delworth, Dave Edgar, Eamonn Walsh, Nov '04. Storm Creek. Additional alternative third pitch too.

The Sound and the Fury, WI6, 90M, Jeff Relph, Paul McSorley and Tom Gruber, Stanley Headwall, Nov '04

Lost in Translation 180m WI5-James Blench, Marco Delesalle, Steve Holeczi. Looks like a very good one in the Ghost! Nov. '04

Double the Power, 100M (??), WI 5, Andrew Wexler, Joe Walsh, Oct 31 Above Cosmic Messenger, looks good. Cool photos.

Honky Tonk Woman 130m, III, M5 WI 5+R F.A. Nov.14 David Marra, Claire Macdonald, Sean Elliott. This looks good.

Koji San - M6, WI 5+, 58 meters, Eric Dumerac, Nick Rapaich, Philippe ' Tronc' Phillet, Nov 2004 Nice new one-pitch addition to the mixed routes on the Trophy Wall.

Highwood Drifters III Wi 5 R 140 metres Eamonn Walsh and Scott Withers, Oct 2004. Nice sounding three-pitch line on Mist Mountain.

Curse of the Bambino, 25M, M5 King Creek, Shawn Huisman, Mike Meilickie Good moderate short route, already seeing traffic.

 

2003/2004 Season (in no particular order as usual)

Kings Couloir 600m Grade: I I I, ***** (five star), Northwest Face (climbers left at the "Y"), Mt. Belanger (3120m), July 24th, 2004, Dave Marra (Jasper), Dana Ruddy (Jasper), Tom Schnugg (Mill Valley, CA). Tom sent this in a while back, just got it up, great new alpince ice route. Some photos as well.

Bath Creek New Routes, Washi-Washi III Wi 4+/5 240 metres Tom Dancs, Eamonn Walsh, Mark Westman, Ravens End III Wi 4 125 metres Eamonn Walsh

The Shire, WI 4, 60m, Dave Marra, Tom Schnugg, January 7 betweeen Panther Falls and the green bridge over Nigel Creek before the big bend on the Parkway.

For Father, 1000m, WI 6, VI, Dave Marra, Tom Schnugg, Feb 11. 2004 . A very serious line around the corner from Slipstream.

'Master of Puppets', WI 6, Chris Delworth and Xman Marra, Dec 03 length and approach as for Upper Weeping

"Nanny Goat Ice," WI3, 20M Tony Swain and partner, Dec 23 2003

Racially Motivated, Whiteman's Falls Canyon, Robert Rogoz and Erol Altay, M5/6 natural pro. 2003/04

The Ying & the Yapping, IV WI6, 120m, FA Scott Semple and Eammon Walsh, up Transparent Fool way, sounds like a good one!

New Routes in Field, and here we thought the place was climbed out!

T3, the free start to T2 on the Trophy Wall, V, M7, WI5+, 150m, FA by Guy Lacelle and Rob Owens. Dec. 2003

Lots of new routes in the David Thompson Corridor: A half dozen new ice and mixed rigs, well done!

100 feet of fun, WI5, 5.9, Wally Lama and Barry Blanchard, Nov 2003 Across from Louise Falls

Axes of Evil, WI4, 5.5 X Brent Raymond, Craig Hyslop (Nov.16, 2003). A good moderate mixed route.

THE ORACLE 450m IV WI4+X M, FA: Stephen Holeczi, Brian Webster, Rob Owens (Barry Blanchard/Phillipe Pellet also had a good go on this, see note on the page for more info). Amazing looking route!

Ursusgrowl, WI3, 30M Bow Lake/Crowfoot area (photo), Sam Lightner and friend.

Left of Louise Falls, WI 4, 65M, Nov ?, Brian Webster and Stephen Holeczi. No other info.

2002/2003 Season (in order of when people sent 'em to me, not date done).

Great Western,  a HUGE North face (winter route) on Mt. Stephen, V, WI5R, M7 off width, 2000m.   F.A. Rob Owens, Scott Semple (both raised in Saskatchewan) April 8th and 9th, 2003 (Yoho Nat. Park, B.C.), 3199m. ( Great Western is a Micro brew from Saskatchewan, name in keeping with the waterfall climbs above Field).

Bleak Frontier And Hollow Threat ,100m IV, WI 4+ November 6, 2002, Jeremy Kroeker, Cordell Friesen. Up Noyes Creek, obvious from the air or on Howse Peak. These were on a lot of people's "to do" list...

The Sanitarium Area (up by Transparent Fool, bunch of routes. Posted 2005, done 2002)

Betrayal, WI 5, 200mish, FA C. Delworth and D. Marra, 2002-3, crowfoot area

"Bone Earring" M4, 6m FA- Greg Cornell, Feb/03,  Bearspirit

Beta Bird, M9, Spring 2003, LeBlanc/Buszowski. New Mixed route in the Ghost near Frodo Bird

Stompin Tom's Cabin, WI3, 100m, FA-Greg Cornell, Jan9/03
This north facing climb stares at Mt.Fable. In colder years the ice may upsize to an integrale route up the gully, ending near the summit of Gap Mtn.

Against All Odds, 6X, V.  FA Sean Easton, Ben Firth, Eric Dumerac, Jan 2003
The route goes up the left side of the North East Face of Mt.Epaulette (left of Choksondik).

Icy Ice WI 2, 22m, FA- Greg Cornell, Dec./02 Half a kilometer east of Grotto Pond

Infinite Patience Mt. Robson (Emperor Face) 2200 Meters VI WI5 M5 5.9 F.A. Barry Blanchard, Eric Dumerac, Philippe Pellet, October 23-25 200 The oft-tried and finally climbed new line on the Emperor Face of Mt. Robson.

Rights of Passage (Mt. Kitchener N.W Face)  1000M IV M5 WI 7+ F.A. Eric Dumerac, Philippe Pellet, October 2002

Goldstream (new route near Adamant Lodge), Yvan Sabourin Al Ducros FA" Oban" Single Malt.WI 5+ in present conditionWI 6.

Miller Swiller  M10-, 15m  , Stanley Headwall; Sean Isaac, Louis-Julien Roy  Dec 02

Mixed Routes on the "Porn Wall," South Ghost, Dec. 2002, First Ascents by: Darcy "Long Dong" Chilton, Sean "Thruster" Isaac, Jeff "Rock Hard" Perron, Roger "Humpin" Strong   (December 2002).

"Weimaraner Whine" WI4 40m IV, Ghost, Jeff Litster & Ross Fictner

The Mild Thing 60 Metre Grade 4 Commitment Grade III on North Ridge of Mt. Chephren, Doug Fulford & Luther McLain. Looks good.

Hede Kasoku 200 Metre Grade 4 Commitment Grade IV, Doug Fulford, Luther McLain, Tatsuro Yamada. Up Tokkum Creek in Kootenay N.P.

New Routes in Gully #3 on Rundle, Logger's Root 30m, WI2+; FA- Greg Cornell, Dec3/02, and High Plains Drifter, 85M, WI3. Nice setting, good place for novices that isn't Professors.

Ice Porn /WI 7+? /M9/A3/VII, Dec. 8th, 9th,10th/2003;
Joe McKay and Paul (not his real name). Many people have looked at the  obvious smear to the right of Slipstream, it's finally done.

Howse of Cards 1100M, VI, WI6X, M7-. Will Gadd, Scott Semple, Kevin Mahoney, Dec 5-6 2002. East face of Howse Peak.

Billy Goats Gruff  1200 m IV, WI4 R mixed, FA  Dave Marra and Jeff Relph, Nov. 28th. Sounds like a great outing on Mt. Kidd!

Slurpee, 70M, WI 3+, Ghost, FA Will Gadd solo Nov 19. A nice spot for a sunny, short and moderate climb that nobody will probably ever do again but here it is.

Balzout 475m 5.9 M5 WI4 FA Jeff Honig, Ben Firth Nov 3 2002. EEOR.  Climb the first 6 or so pitches of Balzac up to 5.9, (we used rock shoes and hands), as per bow valley rock and then traverse right just below the tree onto the ice. This route has been eyeballed and attempted more than most, finally done in a single go!

PermaGrin (TD- M5 WI4, 320m) S. Isaac, S. Semple, B. Webster, October 2002. PermaGrin climbs a pitch and a half of the descent gully on the east face of South Howser Tower, but generally climbs ice smears to the left.

Mudslide,  20m, WI4+ Brian Cork and Ryan Johnson November 3, 2002.  Located 200m right of 'A Wizard Prang' on Mt Head, near Highwood Junction. Short but strenuous.

Cowgirl in the Snow III, W4, 50 m:, Stephen O'Brien, Adam Gunn. October 26, 2002. New route on the east face of James Walker, near Fortress. Other new routes to do too!

Bogart-Sparrowhawk Area (upper end of Ribbon Creek). This is a really amazing new area; VSOP is one of the best new routes I've seen in recent years. Two new routes by Raphael Slawinski and partners, one new route by Blanchard, House, Gadd. Go soon before the climbs sublimate (Nov 1 listing).

Ulalume, 250 m, M5 WI5 FA: Peter Smolik and Raphael Slawinski, Oct. 19, 2002  

This is an aesthetic route high on the west face of Mt. Blane, a narrow strip of ice between impressive rock walls.

Panama W5 M5 300m, Larry Stanier and Grant Statham A great-sounding new route on a little peak between Mt Columbia and King Edward. New route ideas too, very kind.

Steep Foam Alabama, Foam grade not given, North Goodsir, Steve Holeczi and Larry Stanier. Sounds interesting...

Myst, M7, stubby ice screw terrain, Ghost, Shawn and Shelly Huisman, Oct. 26. Good addition to the Ghost.

Conclusion 120m, WI 3+, R, Brad Cooke, Ian Hunt October 13th, 2002. Located on the West flank of south ridge Mt Storm, Highwood    82J/10 "Mt Rae", 466038. Looks like a really good early season addition.

Spinstone (IV, Fun+ R, 390m) S. Isaac, S. Semple, September 2002. Spinstone climbs the gully on the west face of the Howsers between South and Central. The name comes from the constant, in-your-face spindrift at the cruxes and the amazing number of chockstones?both helpful and hindering?that make up the route. (The gully has been rapped before. A couple tell-tale rap anchors are in-situ.)

"Blackbeard", 320m, M5, WI5+R. Grant Meekins and Kirsten Anderson.

The farthest right line on Little Sister, sounds good and it's IN October 21.

2001/2002 Season:

Power of the Gospel. 140m, IV WI 5, Nov, 01 F.A. Dana Ruddy, Peter Kottegen A wild route in the Stutfield Cirque near Echo Madness. Perhaps all of these routes aren't sure death?

New Mixed Routes in Maligne Canyon Some nice additions with fast access courtesy Ruddy, Elliot and Boyd.

Birthday Present. 32m, M7 WI5, Feb 02. F.A Dana Ruddy, Gary Boyd,  An interesting mixed finish to the Snivelling Gully on the Weeping Wall

Caveman Direct Routes, L4+ to L14, Cassius Spray and the Ukranian Kid.

Musashi, 5.9 A2 or MFH, WI 8-, FA W. Gadd, B Firth and crew, Dec '01.Phyllis Diller M10-, 18FA: Dave Thomson, Sean Isaac Dec 2001

Bad Actors, M7, WI4, Dec 26 '01. FA D. Ruddy, S. Elliott. Good new route right of Curtain Call.

Troubled Waters, M9-, WI8- (click for the story on the grade) Dec 20th, Scott Semple and Eammon Walsh.

Hope It's Good (M6/WI5+ R), Dec 8th or so, FA Travis Fenton, Tyler Ledger,  Roger ?

Choksondik,VI, Wi5, 225m First ascent Rene Cote, Jon Walsh, Doug Sproul.. Located across from a Virgin No More, a really good looking line.

"American Triangle" Revisited. Will Gadd, Kim Csimazia return to another Dave Thomson project in waiting. Good climb, nice setting.

Protection Mountain "Mini-Mecca" area: New routes by Raphael Slawinski and Grant Meekins. Remote climbs but with several to choose from definitely worth the walk!

Suffer Less (Climb more version), a direct start to Suffer Machine, M7. Rob Owens and Jason Billings.

A: "Virgin No More" Sunday Oct. 21, 2001 (Josh Briggs, Eamonn

The Cineplex, WI4, M9-, 30m. FA. Jim Gudjonson and Grant Meekins, March 2001. This area has some of the sickest projects in the Rockies, good luck to those working on the FAs!

 

The following routes are organized by region and season.

Kananaskis/Canmore/Banff2001

New Routes on Mt. Kid, direct starts to A Bridge Too Far by Rob Owens, Steve Pasmeny, Joe Buzowski, Graham Maclean, and guests. Two Good M6 to M8 efforts, sound fun.

Haunted By Waters – 45m (165m) V M8 W5 (Sea Of Vapors Direct) FA: Rob Owens, Scott Semple, Mike Verwey, January ‘01

"The Wild Bunch" W.I. 6 RX, 5.7, III(alpine). 400 meters.F.A. Rob Owens and Eamonn Walsh Sept. 26, 2000

Shut up and Walk, WI 5+ R, III, 100 meters. F.A. Steve Holzeki, Kim Csizmazia, Will Gadd, Oct 26, 2000.

Imaginary Goat IV 5.7 WI5 R, 150 m FA: Rob Owens, Raphael Slawinski, Eamonn Walsh, October 30, 2000  

Grasshopper's day out  5.9 WI 4+ 120m. FA. Jason Billing, Nick Rapaich, Oct 30 '00. Near Fortress.

Jungle Warfare III 40m 4+X and Public Eanomas of the State III 150m WI3 5.5. Oct 29/2000 Brett Lawrence, Stephen Holeczi, Jeff Honig, Sean Easton. October 29th 2000. Two good new routes, also in shape NOW.

Spite IV M4 WI4, 80 m of climbing FA: Rob Owens and Raphael Slawinski, November 2, 2000

1999/2000 Season

Big Brother. Alpine-style thin ice, a little like Necrophilia in RMNP but better. On Little Sister above Canmore.

Dr. Evil. A Raphael Slawinski/Jeff Everett creation, forms early season. Sick new photo.

Pity Us Fools. Rob Owens and Graham Maclean. This route sounds really good. It also forms early in the season, which should cut down on the R&D cluster.

Poo Planet, Peter Macpherson / Jeff Perron , November 29 1999. New line beside Shampoo Planet, sounds good!

Stuck in the Middle ** 145 m V, M7R, WI6,   Rob Owens and Patricia Deavoll. New line on the Terminator/Sea wall.

"Bisexual Piton" WI2-3, 5.8 rock 50m Bisexual Piton" WI2-3, 5.8 rock 50m Greg Cornell and Gavin Macrae. Near Grotto Falls, mellow but fun mixed route.

Good Host, WI3, 240m,thin in spots FA-Greg Cornell and David Marra, Dec.1997

Ghost/Back of Yam/Other Places

David Thompson Motor Inn" WI2+,150m. FA-Greg Cornell(alone), Dec.1997 CMC Valley, plus a hint for a new route...

Icefields Parkway '00/'01

Mixed Emotions – 145m IV 5.9 A1 M5 W6 (Upper Weeping Wall). FA: Rob Owens and Scott Semple, January '01. A great four-pitch route on the Uppwer Weeping Wall--plus one pitch is an open project just for you! Great effort.

Call of the Curtain-@120m, III, M7, WI6 (Right of Curtain Call) FA: Will Gadd, Kim Csizmazia, Roger Chayer, March '01. A two-pitch (or more) mixed line right of Curtain Call, a great variety of climbing and an astounding M7 (honest!) roof.

Icefields Parkway '99/'00:

Icicle Fairy. Super fun two-pitch M6 WI 5. South end of Mount Andromacee, NOT Hector as previously believed.

Waterfowl Lakes: More than a half-dozen routes in the Finishing Hammer, One Ring Circus, and Polish Question Gullies. Nice variety, from a 200M WI3 to M9 (now two of 'em with Ben Firth's new route!).

End of Days, III, 5.7, WI 4+. Near Oh Le Tabernac, sounds like a good outing.U2 ** 60 m III, M7+ WI5+ R An excellent direct start to Uli's revenge. Put up in full -20 conditions.

Radium Highway: '00/01

Stairs and Flowers, V M8 WI5+, 200 m of climbing FA: Eric Dumerac and Raphael Slawinski, January 26, 2001. The direct version of Acid Howl, a superb effort!

Radium Highway: '99/'00

Hafner Creek. More good new routes a short walk from the car, M6 to M8. Sean Isaac, Dave Thomson, Guy Lacelle and crew.

Field/Kicking Horse Canyon:

White Water Fisting, Solid M6, WI 4+. Rob Owens, Eamonn Walsh, Steve Holeczi. December 14, 1999.

Photo Above: The Finishing Hammer headwall,  Waterfowl Lakes Gullies.

Littlest Hobo, WI 6, 5.7. The free version of an older Alan Massin aid line, Eammon Walsh and Greg Thaczuk. Left of Silk Tassel.

The Asylum  IV M7 WI5, 180m  FA: Jim Gudjonson, Sean Isaac   Feb 00. Multi-pitch mixed rig.

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