NE Couloir of Murchison, WI2, 5.6, II

FA: Claire Macdonald and David Marra, March 09/05

Approach, Route and Descent:

This route is the obvious right couloir under the Murchison tower on the NE side. The main, lower-angled, iced coulior; ending in the col, is to the Left of this line, use this to descend.  Park in the large parking lot 1/2km south of the X-crossing warden station. Cross the road and head up the obvious creekbed for 45min (hike around short steep ice halfway up on Right then re-enter creekbed).  Continue up the Right couloir all the way to the summit ridge.  Most elevation was gained on bombproof snow.  As the coulior narrows and steepens there are numerous short steps of up to WI 2, 5.4. Scramble and traverse to summit of the Muchison tower from col, some 5.4 wondering. Downclimb down back into NE couloir and continue downclimbing until it is possible to traverse into the Main (East) icy couloir. Follow this down until you can follow your uptrack to car.

Rack: a few screws and cams.  One tool will do and a pair of fit legs.
This is an easy, mixed, alpine route done comfortably in a day.  Have Fun.