Mixed Emotions – 145m IV 5.9 A1 M5 W6 (Upper Weeping Wall) See below for info on the free version.

FA: Rob Owens, Scott Semple, January ‘01

Drive:  As for The Weeping Wall.

Approach:  As for the Upper Weeping Wall.

The Route:  To the left of Teardrop there are several hanging daggers and, lower down, a right-facing corner.  Mixed Emotions follows a line trending up and left from the “prominent snow ledge” (WI, 1995) of Teardrop and heading for the dagger that hangs above the right-facing corner.  On the first ascent the dagger was big and broken off a few meters past the lip of the overhang.

There is about 20 meters of W2 approach ice.

1)       70m, W5.  Climb the first pitch of Teardrop heading for the left-hand side of the prominent snow ledge.  It may be necessary to simul-climb a short distance to reach a sheltered belay.   Beware of the upper daggers.

2)       20m, M5.  At the left end of the ledge, climb a short steep corner onto ice.  Rock and ice blobs lead up and left to a two-bolt anchor below the right-facing corner.

3)       30m, 5.9 A1 W6. Climb the chossy crack/corner on gear to the first of seven bolts.  Power through the bolts out to the dagger.  Continue up funky ice to an ice belay on the right side of the final pillar.

4)       25m, W5+.  Make a short, airy traverse out onto the front of the pillar and climb up ever-improving ice.   Stop where the ice turns to W2—you can rap to the bolted belay from there.

Descent:

1)       Abalakov.  From the beginning of the W2, a full-length rappel will take you to the bolted belay.  Use the highest bolt as a directional on your way down.

2)       Bolts.  A right-trending, full-length rappel will take you a short way down the first pitch to an ice ledge.  A screw as a directional will help.

3)       Abalakov.  Another full-length rappel will take you past the approach ice and onto the snow slope.

Gear:  60m ropes, screws (including stubbies), long slings, draws, pins, medium to small stoppers, Camalots #0.4 to #3

Notes:  This was intended to be a free route, but the combination of the approach pitches, the technical difficulty of the crux and the length of the descent have proven otherwise.  That said, this route is technically doable (M9ish); the holds are positive and numerous enough, but far and hard to find at the crux and sustained afterward.  Consider the free version an open project.

                A single rope and long slings will make life easier on the crux pitch.  Take a second rap line if you use a single.

               


Raphael Slawinski and Ben Firth Recently freed this route, they report:

The M5 pitch: no need to bring stubbies, the pitch protects well with a rock rack (BTW, the recommended rock rack was right-on). The 2-bolt belay at the top of the pitch is definitely uncomfortably close to the impact zone of the dagger. With good rope management to minimize rope drag, it should be possible to link the M5 bit and the 5.9 bit. We belayed on the sloping platform 3 m below the 1st bolt (good medium cam placements), not as comfortable as the 2-bolt belay but totally safe (and it is a no-hands rest, so it is still kosher for a free ascent).

The drytooling to the dagger goes free at M8: climb up the crack above the belay for a few moves, lean off a chockstone and make a long reach up and left to a hold. Paste your feet above the roof, get a good but inobvious drytool placement up and left, from which you can reach the obvious good flake. Snag the dagger and continue up to the alcove. We added a bolt-and-pin anchor in the alcove: probably unnecessary if the ice is good, but comforting as the ice grows more detached. BTW, the dagger was still in reasonable shape and should be OK for another few days provided it stays cloudy. A couple of sunny days could finish it off in a hurry, as it gets really hot up there when the sun comes out.

We rappelled from an abalakov near the top of the WI2 to the bolt-and-pin anchor. From there, a long rappel reaches the big ledge on Teardrop.

Congrats again for putting up such a stellar line in such good style (i.e., no dicking around with fixed lines, etc.)

Raphael

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