King’s Breath (in left gully) and Cursed Goddess (in right gully) are two alpine ice lines found high on the west face of Mist Mountain in Highwood Pass. A couple of "new routes". Eamonn seems to think these lines are unclimbed (they are near his Highwood Drifters line that he climbed last year, and that I repeated this year in phat conditions), but they could
be part of the Nagy Highwood Triad that Jojo alludes to.
Approach: Drive about 5 km south of Highwood Pass and park at the wide drainage between Mist Mountain and Mt. Lipsett. Hike along creek for about 1 hr until below the gully sporting the 2 lines. Clamber up the left side of the drainage to the highest point of the scree slope, left of the main gully. Scramble 4th class rock to surmount the cliff band and follow a ramp rightward into the gully proper - then strait up. 4.5 hrs to the ice in deep snow!
King’s Breath (III W4 80m) FA: Lise Beaulieu and Colin Wooldridge, Nov. 6 2005
Pitch 1: Rolling steps take you thru narrowing bedding planes. Cross the snow bowl and climb a frozen breath of mist adhered to an unbroken, off-vertical slab. An atmospheric pitch. Stubbies needed. 60m.
Pitch 2: If you dare…climb directly thru wind-thrown leaves of ice, or bypass easily on the left. 20m.
Descent: Rappel from v-threads.
Cursed Goddess (III W2+ 80m) FA: Colin Wooldridge, Nov. 6 2005
Boot up a series of rolling steps to the ribbon of ice. Charge up poor ice, while ignoring the curses being shouted out by the goddess far below. Continue over another series of taller steps being careful not to step thru the ice dam at the top. Doh!
Descent: Downclimb and rappel from v-threads.