New Jasper Routes from Sean Elliot (I've GOT to get up there, rad! -wg)
A couple of routes were completed last season and a few more just recently. What a season its been so far, almost not looking forward to leaving for Spain in two days. I sometimes feel like a rabid dog, so hungry for the taste of the icy flesh, the all consuming fever to sink our claw like picks into the virgin blue flow and.......but I digress. Anyway this Ranger Creek place is really awesome, good concentration of climbs and wicked potential. Its in the new Waterfall guide so the approach beta etc. can be referenced from there and so i'll just give an idea of where these climbs are in relation to whats in the book. Hope i'm not making you work too hard. Thanks Will and have an excellent season. Sean Elliott
Choss Wrangler...starts on the right pillar of the Two Times a Loser pillars at Ranger Creek North in Jasper National Park. Use the Waterfall Ice guide as a reference for location, approach beta etc.
Choss Wrangler and the Invisible Man M 7+ WI 5, 70m starts on the right pillar and climbs it to below a roof, there is a bolted station on the left. Step right and up a steep bit into a broken section, the rock is quite shattered here for a few metres but the climbing pretty easy. A red alien and a red metolius tcu could come in handy plus there are two fixed nuts side by side. Make a rising traverse past a small ledge to some tricky moves to get to the dagger. Continue up several metres on ice to where it ends. Ten bolts plus screws and screamers. Belay from a two bolt anchor on the left of the seep. A short but burly bit of climbing takes you past two bolts and on to the hanging curtain and a few metres to the top. Belay from the ice just over the lip. Another half pitch of WI 4 is above but was not climbed. Rappel from a v-thread close to the lip, back clip the bolts to below the roof. Make one long rappel from bolts to get off. Ultra classic and beautiful. F.A. Paul Valuilis, Sean Elliott Jan.04.
On the right side of Alpine gully lower down from Trojan∑ is a somewhat hidden amphitheatre that contains four climbs all lined up in a row and all a full rope length. Climb a short step of ice to a huge ledge. Rappel all routes from V-threads. From left to right.
Unclimbed WI 5, 60m. Not quite attached when we were there. Looks good and hard.
A Ghost is Born WI 5, 60m. Climb big cauliflowers and launch up a steep pillar on ice that gets better the higher you get. F.A. Marra/Ruddy/Elliott Dec.04
Thin Lizzie WI 5, 60m. An awesome slender pillar and hard for the grade. F.A. Marra/Ruddy/Elliott Dec.04
Unclimbed WI 3, 60m. A big flow. Didn‚t have time to climb it, great position.
Right of Alpine gully are three wide, stepped gullies. Ice can be seen in varying amounts in each of them. From left to right.
Diamond in the Rough WI 5, 50m. Enter the gully and climb some lower angle approach ice. Belay on rock (pins and small tricam) left of the next 50m pitch. Climb funky mushrooms up to a steep free hanging curtain, gently tap your way up on good ice to a tree belay out right.
The route Hard Charger is between Diamond in the Rough and Sweet F.A.
Sweet F.A. WI 4+, 90m. The right hand gully. Three tiers with a steep half pitch of great ice to finish. Two rappels from ice and a tree. F.A. Marra/Elliott Dec.04 There‚s an awesome cave left of the final pitch that has wicked potential for mixed lines, long and super steep!
Diamond Cutter was climbed early last season and has formed again.
Diamond Cutter III WI 5+, 80m. Easily visible from the highway approx. six kilometres north of Sunwapta Resort looking east. It flows over a large rock band that continues south to the Ranger Creek climbs. Its best to follow that approach but to stay left of the drainage and continue up steep forested terrain while traversing left into the ŒDiamond Cutter‚ amphitheatre. Approx. two hours. This pillar has been known to touch down before but it usually collapses after the first cold snap before it has a chance to get well supported. F.A. Paul Valuilis, Sean Elliott Nov.