Imaginary Goat IV 5.7 WI5 R, 150 m

FA: Rob Owens, Raphael Slawinski, Eamonn Walsh, October 30, 2000

 Report from Raphael Slawinski

This is a fun early-season climb. It is found in the centre of the north-east face of Mt. Warspite along the Smith-Dorrien trail and is easily seen from the road (up and right of the ice climb “The Hoser”). Take a rack of pins (especially KBs), small cams, and screws including stubbies.

Approach: Park along the Smith-Dorrien trail 7 km north of the junction with the Kananaskis Lakes Road, wade the creek, and hike up the left margin of the drainage to the route (2 hrs). There are a number of smears on the face: “Imaginary Goat” is directly below a slight col immediately left (south) of the summit of Mt. Warspite.

Climb: Start up a thin ice vein (WI3) 30 m left of a deep chimney. Traverse right on a large snow ledge into the upper part of the chimney and climb more WI3 to another large snow ledge (single-bolt belay). Climb yet more WI3 to below a steep wall, where a traverse right leads to a bolt-and-piton belay. The last pitch is the crux: step up onto a small slab and traverse left to a fragile pillar. Try to bash some pins into the compact rock and fire the pillar to easier ice and a two-bolt belay at the top.


Descent: Rappel the route from fixed anchors and an abalakov.