Honky Tonk Woman 130m, III, M5 WI 5+R F.A. Nov.14 David Marra, Claire Macdonald, Sean Elliott
Approach: Park as for Curtain Call or ≤ km further south on the other side of a treed ridge along the Icefields Parkway. This line is easily visible from the road, up and right of Curtain Call (the approach is the alternate descent route for CC). Watch for rockfall in mild conditions.
1st pitch 5.8, 20m.
Climb up a broken ledge system approx. 10m left of the anaemic hanging dagger. Up and right (fixed tri-cam) to a belay stance. One bolt and one pin, 20m.
2nd pitch M5, WI 5R, 60m.
Traverse up and right to the ice (fixed pin). Runout on really thin and narrow flow that gradually gets thicker and becomes stepped and follows a corner like feature. Belay from ice directly below big ledge. Awesome climbing, 5star pitch.
3rd pitch 5.4, 20m.
Leave the belay and climb either ice or mixed rock on the left to gain the big ledge. Belay from an obvious crack/corner using pins and cams. Beware of loose rock on ledge.
4th pitch WI 5+, 50m.
Traverse right to final pitch and great belay stance out right (no real gear). Climb steep, yellow ice. Belay from tree directly atop the route. Another beautiful pitch.
Descent: One rappel from the tree. Traverse climbers left on big ledge, down climb easy terrain back to main gully.
Gear: KB‚s, LA‚s, 5 mid sized cams, ∏ rack of nuts. Full ice rack (make sure to bring stubbies and 13cm‚s), spectre hook.
Note: If one chose to put more bolts on the 1st pitch and/or belays, the FA team would support it.