Not a technically desperate route, but an adventurous outing. Follow the
Guides Route on Eeor for 10 pitches, then head up left into the main upper
corner past two trees to a belay below where the ice starts. We climbed the
ice in 5 pitches.
1. Head up interesting mixed terrain to a two bolt belay (station for
Dumocrack which comes in from the right and continues out left).
2. Climb up the fun narrow runnel to an ice belay below a short steep bit.
3. Up the steep bit to a short corner and a belay in an alcove.
4. Grovel and stem up the wide crack to a ledge system and belay in pin crack below the
dagger, (3 and 4 could be combined)
5. Climb a thin slab of ice to the rock, some drytooling, chimneying,
stemming and pulling gets one up the dagger (protected by pins) then ice
to the top of the crag. Commiting pitch. 70 metre ropes just reach a
bit of rock sticking out of the scree that offers good pro for an anchor.