The Great Escape M7+ WI 4
Jyoti Venne, Joe Buszowski, Kevin Dyck, Feb 2006
Approach: The route is found on the ice about 60m right of Curtain Call, and just left of the mixed line Bad Actors. The ice/route is obvious from the Icefields Parkway. Park as for CC and stumble up the scree slope and gear up below the first ledge. A bit of snowy rock or easy approach ice (5m) puts you on a big ledge to belay.
P1: M7 WI3, 25m Follow the bolt line through a short but burly roof past 4 bolts. Turn the ice between two obvious pillars. Continue up the ice to the next ledge and belay from abalokovs.
P2: M7+ WI4 35m Climb slabby rock to a roof and head out right to the ice. Squeeze out between two pillars and head up moderate ice to a big ledge and belay off ablokovs. We used a 70m rope for this pitch and 35m just put us at the anchor. If using 60’s take two or a tag line to rap.
If someone wanted to bolt a station on top of the first pitch that would be okay but not really necessary. We ran out of bolts.
Everyone says their routes are fantastic, but this one really is!!