Dread Circus, 500M, WI 5+ (?) White Pyramid, Michael Boos and Pierre Darbellay, Feb 2005

More photos here.

 

WG Note--I know Michael Boos from Switzerland, he showed up and wanted to go climbing, Kim found him a partner last-minute, and he goes and does a cool new route! The following is his story of climbing the line right of Reality Bath, an unrepeated Rockies route by Mark Twight and Randy Rackcliffe from the 80s.

The line is on the right side of the photo, thin yellow, hard to see but clear enough.

I arrived last Thursday in Calgary and drove to Canmore. You, Kim have
been so kind to call around later the evening to find me somebody to
climb with next day and have come up with Pierre Darbellay from
Valais/Switzerland, we have never met nor climbed together before (but
we are both UIAGM guides, though I am hardly guiding anymore) and he
suggested the line; he has spent some months in Canmore, but now returns
to Bovernier. I gladly accepted what sounded like a decent proposal for
a fine outing - what it was indeed.

It is a story itself, the entire last week:
Departure Sunday to Boston. With Bjorn Lovas to New Hampshire. Monday
Cannon Cliff: Black Dike at -18°C - nice ice and mixed climb with
special descent: steep forrest (45°), 40 cm powder on ice (sit down,
slide, enjoy). Tuesday: Vermont, Lake Willoughby - forgot rope (talked
too much nonsense?), so back again to NH to fetch it, but now the sun
has arrived: 5°C, melting. The Last Gentleman is thinning out and all
ice sounds hollow, solid belay impossible - I reverse traverse, then we
rappel. Wednesday: North Conway Repentence has dripped away, so:
Frankenstein Cliff Standard Route with a direct finish (nice icicles),
then back to Boston and Thursday to Calgary - Canmore. Thank you for
hosting me in your wonderful place! On Friday with Pierre start 04:15,
2 hrs up Icefields Parkway, by skis 3 hrs. access (Epaulet lake) to
White Pyramid, there Dread Circus (mostly scarce protection: max. 2 - 3
solid screws per 60 m pitch, two pitches of ca. 90 m each, in total ca.
8 pitches). Rappel in moonshine, thereupon we ski down, all day around
-20°C, back in Canmore at 23:30. Saturday late up and north, Lower
Weeping Wall solo, then on to Jasper-Valemount for Dinner and on to
Crescent Spur (McBride/Prince George). Sunday Finale: with André
Lafferma (helipilot) all day heliski in the Cariboo Mountains. After
dinner at the lodge I leave to Calgary (gas/2 coffees in Jasper, 2 stops
of 20' sleep each on Icefields Parkway and city boundaries of Calgary),
then flying fridge (United Airline 1114 with frozen pipes inside plane)
to Chicago-Boston-Zurich.

I guess this is just a great pile of luck! And I enjoyed it. It
somehow comes close to my understanding of what holidays should be...

Thanks sooo much again! I look forward to my next time in the Canadian
Rockies, grin!

Michael