by Raphael Slawinski, Phd.
Dr. Evil ** 75 m IV, 5.6 WI5
FA: Jeff Everett and Raphael Slawinski, Oct. 10, 1999
In the bowl to the north of First Blood and on the same rockband as that climb, a number of lines are easily visible from the road. Dr. Evil is the leftmost route, a series of discontinuous smears leading up to an ice hose. The climbing is devious and varied, connecting ice features via short stretches of rock. Take ice screws including stubbies and pitons from KBs to angles. The route forms very early in the season, and would be suicidal with any avalanche hazard.
Approach: park on the side of the Smith-Dorrien trail 5 km south of Burstall Pass. Bushwack through alders into the drainage below the route and follow open slopes to the base. 2.5 hrs. Route: traverse left on a sloping snow ledge with a broken icicle above to an arete (single bolt belay). Traverse left to a short curtain, climb it, and move right and up over easy but loose rock to the base of a short, free-standing icicle (bolt). Gently climb the icicle to a belay behind the upper pillar (piton). Climb the short free-standing pillar and the ice hose above to a 2-bolt belay on the right. Descent: Rappel. 60 m ropes reach the ground from the top anchor.